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How to apply linseed oil to cues?

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  • #31
    Mr O,
    where do you get your cue papers from,i would like to try them, they sound like a good accessory.

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    • #32
      Originally Posted by flame View Post
      Mr O,
      where do you get your cue papers from,i would like to try them, they sound like a good accessory.
      Just google them and you'll get a couple of mail order websites. I'll probably order some up in the next day or so. Worth a try I think.

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      • #33
        Originally Posted by Mr O View Post
        I think for the purpose of re-finishing/oiling etc the winners papers are probably better. you only get 3 papers in the pack though but they are a decent size. The Q-smooth ones are small but you get 3 or 4 of each grade. I think they're meant to be carried in your case so you can use them in between games. Both makes are about the same price £6 , to be honest I'ts probably worth getting one of each lol. I never really need to carry a rag anymore
        What cue are you using these on? Surely you shouldn't sand your cue every time you play You'll end up with no cue left
        sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!

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        • #34
          Originally Posted by RGCirencester View Post
          What cue are you using these on? Surely you shouldn't sand your cue every time you play You'll end up with no cue left
          custom mike wooldridge, but no I don't "sand" the cue every time I play. I use them to re-finish after oiling, and now and again if the cue needs it.

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          • #35
            i can't believe people would pay 6 pound for 3 sheets of wet and dry. Why dont you just go to local autofactors and pay 50p a sheet?

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            • #36
              Originally Posted by tinytim139 View Post
              i can't believe people would pay 6 pound for 3 sheets of wet and dry. Why dont you just go to local autofactors and pay 50p a sheet?
              errrmm because the finest grade you can get in autofactors is 1200 maybe 2000 if you're lucky. I'm talking 30,000 grade here tinytim

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              • #37
                Mr O Glad you re-posted cos I was thinking you'd got a typo on the 30,000. Thought you'd meant to type 3,000. I'm down to 1,500 now and find 30,000 unbelievable! It must be just like a humming bird wing. Thanks.

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                • #38
                  Sorry im going to put my 20p's worth in. I agree 30,000 must be a typo. When i finish a cue i rarely get upto 4000 grit and thats from start to finish. Its just pointless on wood. If you were working on a car body then that is understandable, but there is no point going higher than 2000 - 3000.
                  sigpic <---New Website
                  Dan Shelton Cues on Facebook

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                  • #39
                    Well.......that's what it says on the back of the finest grade in the winner's cue paper pack, I've tried on ebay and googled to get similar paper cheaper but just can't find any so I'll carry on with it. Totlxtc not wanting to argue with you about cues but shouldn't you just get the finest available?

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                    • #40
                      I've just finished doing this step by step and the end result is superb.
                      I bought an East Sea cue at a very cheap price £15:99 on ebay. This cue looked like it had no finish what so ever so i went out and bought the Boiled Linseed oil.

                      cleaned the cue first then dried, sanded and added an even layer. repeated this another 3 times and the cue is soo silky perfect infact.

                      Thanks for the step-by-step post
                      If practice makes perfect, and no one's perfect, then why practice?

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                      • #41
                        you obviously didn't sand the splices very hard.

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                        • #42
                          Originally Posted by flame View Post
                          you obviously didn't sand the splices very hard.
                          lol
                          sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!

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                          • #43
                            does over oiling a cue makes the cue heavier?

                            because i remember i had my cricket bat oiled and it soaked in a lot of oil and became very heavy,couldnt time the ball at all.
                            Last edited by khizzy; 15 March 2010, 07:29 PM.
                            RIP NOEL, A TRUE TSF LEGEND.

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                            • #44
                              you cannot over oil a cue,once it has enough oil, it will stop soaking any more oil in.

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                              • #45
                                I think Trevor once mentioned that over oiling a cue might cause a patchy look of the shaft
                                Proud winner of the 2009 Premier League Semi-Final Prediction Contest

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