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On my previosu cue it would take a while for me to change.
You play a long slow deadweight red to a corner pocket. As it approaches the pocket, a kamikaze woodlouse crawls out from under the cushion and makes its way across the table, conflicting with the path of the red precisely at the point the red gets there. The red, needless to say, veers off course, and the future of the woodlouse is uncertain. - The Statman
I've tried sticking it on to my other cue (which the tip got ripped off, got caught in the netting of corner pocket and got ripped off), I need to get it down, but I sanded down a millimetre of the ferrule which was annoying.
if youd cut the remains of the other tip off correctly with a sharp blade and sanded the remains until the cue and outside edge of the ferrule was free from any "debris" then you would have lost less than 1/10 of a mm.
the more you do retipping, the better youll be at it
That's very true I once put 5 on in a day I just wasn't happy with the result!
I have been known to resort to buyin missive 13mm tips for my 9mm cue to give me more to work with!
I hate retipping and playing in a new tip!
I try to get as lon as pos out of a tip!
I'm talking rubbish again!
That should say I try to make a tip last as long as pos!
Even though my tipping has improved with practice I still might take it to a cue doctor next time!
I tend to go through a lot of tips as i play anywhere between 2-6 times a week for about 3-4 hours a night, mainly pool, once a week for snooker.
i hate using a new tip aswel, i dont usually let anyone use my cue, but when i have just retipped my cue i tend to borrow it out for a few weeks so other people bed the tip in for me.
I use the wooldridge single layer tip which seem to bed in very quickly and are very consistent straight away, i use normal superglue but after reading a few thread on here im going to change over to the gel.
Im also thinking of trying the talisman's again, i used the normal superglue last time and i think it seeped into the talsiman making it super hard which could be the reason why i didnt like it very much.
Adr147's tip guide is very useful i will be following that next time i re-tip my cue.
i basically "learned" this by watching someone retip John Higgins' cue many years ago
Originally Posted by Semih_Sayginer
- cut off the old tip at the ferrule with a sharp knife
- put sandpaper on a table
- hold the cue upside down and sand the top of the cue in a circular motion, so that you dont wear out one side more than the other
- turn the cue around and lightly sand the top down to a very smooth finish
- measue the ferrule width
- choose a new tip at least 1/2 a mm bigger in diameter than the ferrule
- sand the flat side of the tip in a circular motion, again so that the tip doesnt get sanded lop sided
- put a small spot of superglue gel on the flat side of the tip, covering less than half of the area with glue, as it will spread out.
- prss the tip down onto the prepared cue and hold in place with your thumb, pressing down firmly for about 2 minutes or so
- leave the cue to stand for at least 10 minutes, but longer if you can. absolutely no need to leave overnight or similar ridiculous times
- turn the cue upside down again. press down on the cue slightly and, using a sharp knife, trim the excess of the tip. pressing down on the cue will hel to stop the blade of the knife separating the glud tip from the cue.
- once youve turned the cue around and trimmed down the overlapping part of the tip your cue is nearly ready to use
- use sandpaper to slightly dome the tip always going from tip middle to the sides. never upwards, moving down grade of paper unto a finish where you like your cue tip to be shaped
- use the finest sandpaper you can source and spin it around the ferrule a few times, and then do the sides of the tip with it also
- to shine the ferrule, use worn fine sandpaper on it, spinning the cue around it, then use the paper side to buff it, spinning the cue around again.
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