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  • #16
    Originally Posted by ADR147 View Post
    a good cue will help you to play better but a good cue does not have to be a £500 cue.
    Perfectly and concisely put Andrew.

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    • #17
      Originally Posted by hotpot View Post
      What group does Domonic Dale belong to

      Those of us who know Dominic well will be aware that he'd have to have a group specially set aside for him alone.

      He is a real unique one that lad....haha.

      Some talent though.

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      • #18
        I've been having similar discussions with my friends when we play as we have a varied range of cues we all use some cheap and some expensive. Personally speaking you can play a good shot with any cue if you cue it well but its all about feeling happy with what you are using so you play consistent shots everytime, I have used many cues and once I found one I was happy with I got a copy of it made by a cue maker because it broke. What I have noticed is the difference in quality and feel of a custom made and I would never use a standard cue again. I would rather spend my money using a cue that is made the way I like it as I have wasted alot of time and money trying to find a standard cue that I liked. A cue is like anything in life you dont get good things cheap. And you dont need to be the best player in the world to have a nice cue.

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        • #19
          Originally Posted by woody3235 View Post
          I've been having similar discussions with my friends when we play as we have a varied range of cues we all use some cheap and some expensive. Personally speaking you can play a good shot with any cue if you cue it well but its all about feeling happy with what you are using so you play consistent shots everytime, I have used many cues and once I found one I was happy with I got a copy of it made by a cue maker because it broke. What I have noticed is the difference in quality and feel of a custom made and I would never use a standard cue again. I would rather spend my money using a cue that is made the way I like it as I have wasted alot of time and money trying to find a standard cue that I liked. A cue is like anything in life you dont get good things cheap. And you dont need to be the best player in the world to have a nice cue.
          Well said, and as one of the earlier posters said - a cue should feel like an extension of your arm. I was given this same advice by a coach years ago, and while it is true that a good player can play with any cue - that same good player will more likely play well with their own cue, because they are used to it and how it plays for them. A good cue can be any price - if it suits you!!!!!

          Mark

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          • #20
            Hi it does not mean that you will play better with a cue worth gbp 600 or a cue that is worth gbp 6 look at Stephen Hendry cue when he won the World Snooker Champs in the ninetys he paid only gbp 40 and made millions with that cue

            Its the feel of the cue when you play with it and another thing when you have the right cue that suits you never sell it or you will regret it the rest of your life. Cheers Leonard from Canada

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            • #21
              I am speaking from a position of ignorance, but having read the replies posted to this thread, it appears to me that much of what makes a cue good is the state of mind of the user. There doesn't seem to be a great deal involved technically - the specifications of a cue may be the same if it is £30 or £300. It seems that it is just more the case that one is mentally happier with the cue if it cost a larger sum of money, and they therefore delude themselves into thinking that one bit of wood is superior to another.

              Aesthetically, I do not doubt that £300 will get you a nicer looking and better built cue than £30, but, in my view, there is not that much difference between one cue and another in terms of playability.

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              • #22
                It is the weight and balance of the cue that matters; and these give you the feel. Tip size/length etc are secondary.

                Most importat is cue action. A different cue (new cue) will give you excitment and play better but not the real reason why you play better.

                Just a share of my experience.

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                • #23
                  Interesting debate this To answer your question directly: You pays your money and you takes your choice. Try not to be bamboozled by all the talk on here into spending silly money on a cue before you get a little more experienced. Try out your mates cues and other players in the club. Weight is failry important. 16 - 17.5 oz is generally considered a light cue. 17.5 - 19 oz a medium weight and above that is heavy.

                  Other things to consider are transporting your cue around. Most decent players use either a one piece or 3/4 cue. The great advantage of the 3/4 cue is the shorter case required to transport it (getting in or out of your mates car with a one piece Alu case and scratching his roof lining in the process won't endear you to him!). If you do choose a one piece or 3/4 split cue make sure it has a butt joint to take extensions. These are invaluable in the modern game... Mini-butt to enable you to take longer shots without the rest AND a telescopic extension so you never have to use the wobbly fishing tackle under the side of the table....(I never do nowadays)

                  Also consider tip size... This can be personal preference, but as a guide 9 - 10mm is best for snooker. Smaller e.g. 7 - 8 mm is lovely for English pool with the small cue ball, but not great for snooker as you'll probably mis-cue every other shot with a 2 & 1/16th" cue ball. As my game has improved, I've reduced my prefered tip size from 10mm to 9mm now. This is due to me being more accurate with the slightly smaller tip as I have progressed and become more confident.

                  There is a trend now to mushroom the tip over the ferrule. Some Pro's do this (McCulloch - Bondy etc.. Think John Higgins tried it also??) Don't like this myself and if you look at Robertsons or O'Sullivans cue they have the tip flush to the ferrule.

                  PM me (when you've done 10 posts or more on here) or email me your specs. to cueist@genie.co.uk and I'll quote you on a sensibly priced cue - got several nice Cue Craft Hand spliced cues available now and a full range of cases.

                  Hope this helps...Dave, Snookerpoolman
                  Last edited by snookerpoolman; 4 January 2011, 02:49 AM.

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                  • #24
                    Originally Posted by the montrealer View Post
                    Hi it does not mean that you will play better with a cue worth gbp 600 or a cue that is worth gbp 6 look at Stephen Hendry cue when he won the World Snooker Champs in the ninetys he paid only gbp 40 and made millions with that cue

                    Its the feel of the cue when you play with it and another thing when you have the right cue that suits you never sell it or you will regret it the rest of your life. Cheers Leonard from Canada
                    Quite simply this is very much true. The feel of the cue for you is the most important thing, but I do think that sometimes the more expensive hand made cues such as the Trevor White cues possibly are better built and balanced apart from looking nice!!!!

                    Each to his own I say - but it is true that if you are lucky enough to find the one cue for you - don't let it go or break it!!!!

                    Mark

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                    • #25
                      Originally Posted by abram View Post
                      I am speaking from a position of ignorance, but having read the replies posted to this thread, it appears to me that much of what makes a cue good is the state of mind of the user. There doesn't seem to be a great deal involved technically - the specifications of a cue may be the same if it is £30 or £300. It seems that it is just more the case that one is mentally happier with the cue if it cost a larger sum of money, and they therefore delude themselves into thinking that one bit of wood is superior to another.

                      Aesthetically, I do not doubt that £300 will get you a nicer looking and better built cue than £30, but, in my view, there is not that much difference between one cue and another in terms of playability.
                      I agree and disagree with your last sentence - yes £300 will result in a better looking cue, but in all fairness in my experience, and talking even of club cues here, they all vary as far as playability goes - some are good or reasonable, but others are not good at all as far as balance etc goes.

                      So I would say there can be a big difference in playability of a cue irrespective of its price - this is just my oppinion on what I have experienced over the years, but I would not insist that this is so for everyone.

                      Mark

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                      • #26
                        Well if you pay a bit more the cue is less likely to be a dud or fall apart. Depending on who it's from
                        If you want something specific you pay a bit more to get what you want.

                        I play with one of Trevs cues but a had a Peradon before that (middle priced I suppose) and it was rubbish. Not as good as an old Riley I used to play with that my Dad was given by a Riley rep. Having said that a mate had a custom Peradon better than any Parris I've ever seen.

                        Depends on you and the cue in question. Personally I couldn't play with the grain on a cheap Riley type cue it does my head in.
                        If you don't know what you want, somewhere like Craftsman or Greenbaize where you can try cues is a good option. You might find you like a £50 second hand cue to a £300 one.

                        Feels like old ground really. To make it more so: Hendry's cue was not bloody cheap. This is a proper old chestnut. £40 second hand all those years ago is not like buying a £40 new Argos cue now. A cue like that would probably cost £200-£250 now. Not top dollar but not cheap.

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