I think it's time for some maintenence on my cue, some questions :)

[AndyMosh]

So i've got a Joe Johnson championship snooker cue which I bought from one of his clubs in Barnsley, and having recently started playing again I need to give some life back to it.

The other day I changed the tip on the cue and it went quite succesfully, it is well rounded and plays well.

What I want to do now is to get rids of the minor dints that are in the shaft and clean it up a bit, all I'm puzzled about is what to use.

I've seen that fine grade steel wool (0000) is good to remove the seal on the cue, will this remove the dints too?

I have seen a glass rod being sold as a dent remover but that was 10 pounds and i'm not sure if it would work.

What would I need to get rid of these dents and dings and also to clean and reseal the cue? Also is there anything you can use to clean the ferrel?

Thanks for any feedback

[BadMadWicked]

Not sure about removing dents, I've used the fine grade steel wool (0000) to clean the ferrel before. I've also used Brasso, which works great on the ferrel and joint, but be careful not to get it on the wood or it stains.

[AndyMosh]

Would the steel wool be suitable for the shaft as well? I'll leave the Brasso as i'd probably end up staining the wood.

This was the dent buffer:

http://www.billiardsboutique.com/cue...ffer-430-p.asp

and people say it works but if there is a cheaper method that would be great.

I'm just a bit confused about the process, is it a case of using the steel wool to remove the seal, cleaning the cue and then resealing it with beeswax/linseed oil?

[philthoms]

I had this type of job done at Craftsman Cues in Kippax near Wakefield a few years ago and they did a good job. It's not a job you should try yourself as cuemakers have special lathes for tapering wood and they will be able to skim off the lumps and bumps much more easily. They may even do it while you wait. I can't remember how much they charged but it wasn't very much. You could ring them and tell them what you want. They have a website with contact details.

[AndyMosh]

I had this type of job done at Craftsman Cues in Kippax near Wakefield a few years ago and they did a good job. It's not a job you should try yourself as cuemakers have special lathes for tapering wood and they will be able to skim off the lumps and bumps much more easily. They may even do it while you wait. I can't remember how much they charged but it wasn't very much. You could ring them and tell them what you want. They have a website with contact details.

The bumps in the cue aren't really major they are just small, not really something to put on a lathe, thanks for letting me know they exist I have been looking for a local-ish snooker place to get repairs done on other cues

BadMadWicked would steel wool (0000) be suitable for the shaft too? I'll leave the Brasso as i'd probably end up staining the wood.

Now i've been searching the forums and a lot of people are saying to use either clear beeswax or raw linseed oil to apply a seal to my cue after i've stripped it and cleaned it, does anyone have experience with both and know which would be better? I'm tempted to go for the beeswax just because it sounds like it would be more suited?

[AndyMosh]

I have bought some 0000 grade steel wool pads to remove the finish I have at the minute, some rustins raw linseed oil and some lint free sheets to apply the oil, ive left the glass dent buffer out because its basically a pint glass (thats what they used to use before this over priced item came into existance) so i'll just polish a pint glass up at home and use that to smoothen the dents (thats if the steel wool doesn't do this already), i'll probably apply 3-5 coats of linseed oil which will take a week, also going to buy a cue towel to keep any chalk or grease off of it, should have a nice brand new looking cue in a few weeks i'll try and post pictures after i've finished

also sorry if my replies come all at once, a moderator has to approve my replies for some reason, aye well i'll let you know how it goes!

[jaffa.johnson]

To make the cue super smooth again, I would use fine sandpapers. 600+ grit. Then finish with the raw linseed oil.

If you cue is ash, I find that wire wool removes the grains so then you have a job of filling them again.

[AndyMosh]

To make the cue super smooth again, I would use fine sandpapers. 600+ grit. Then finish with the raw linseed oil.

If you cue is ash, I find that wire wool removes the grains so then you have a job of filling them again.

I believe my cue is ash and it removes the grain? Visually removes it or touch wise?

[DeanH]

I believe my cue is ash and it removes the grain? Visually removes it or touch wise?

Both - but in my opinion more touch wise
I only ever use very fine sandpaper never wirewool, even the finesh possible.
On this forum there are several previous postings about getting dents out by using a damp cloth and and iron, or a wad of soaking kitchen paper against the dent and leave over night, do a search and see what you find.
All the best

[jaffa.johnson]

I believe my cue is ash and it removes the grain? Visually removes it or touch wise?

Both in my experience.

If you are looking at taking cues up as a hobby then I would continue seeking advice and do different things for your experiences to grow.

If your only/main interest is getting the cue refurbed and start playing again, I would pay the money and get it refurbed by one of the nearest local cue makers.

If you are barnsley way then going to craftsman at leeds should be no trouble in terms of distance.

Whilst getting it refurbed, you could look at all the cues then have on offer and maybe purchase a new cue altogether.

[AndyMosh]

I'm not too fussed about the touch part, as feeling the grain when i'm about to pot is quite distracting.

Visually we'll see how much it fades it, if it's not too much I wouldn't mind, if it's alot i'll look into putting the grain back in again, i'm not wanting to do this as a hobby and you're right leeds is quite close to home but I love for new experiences, hence why I changed my own tip, I like to learn and if I learn myself I won't have to pay so much and travel

Any tips on the process of using the wire wool and linseed oil? I've looked and seen that 12 hours is about right for the oil to set in and put a new layer on?

Also what should the wood feel like after using the wire wool?

Thanks for the replies guys

[jaffa.johnson]

I'm not too fussed about the touch part, as feeling the grain when i'm about to pot is quite distracting.

Visually we'll see how much it fades it, if it's not too much I wouldn't mind, if it's alot i'll look into putting the grain back in again, i'm not wanting to do this as a hobby and you're right leeds is quite close to home but I love for new experiences, hence why I changed my own tip, I like to learn and if I learn myself I won't have to pay so much and travel

Any tips on the process of using the wire wool and linseed oil? I've looked and seen that 12 hours is about right for the oil to set in and put a new layer on?

Also what should the wood feel like after using the wire wool?

Thanks for the replies guys

What you say about feeling the grain, you wont neccesarily feel grain but removing the grain means you feel there is no grain when cueing.

Does that make sense?

In terms of its darkness, this can restored using the oil and/or wax.

I would buy yourself some 600-2000 grit sandpaper and just use this.

I would leave the oil on overnight so 12-24 hours is about right. Then you need to buff it with a dry cloth, preferrably a microcloth you use for dusting etc.

PS: - What tip have you put on?

[AndyMosh]

What you say about feeling the grain, you wont neccesarily feel grain but removing the grain means you feel there is no grain when cueing.

Could you try and explain this a little better? If I try and understand you, you mean I won't feel the grain of the wood anyway but if I use wire wool I won't feel any grain at all and it will be TOO smooth?

Which grit sandpaper would be better?

Also do you mean a microfibre cloth? That you would use for your glasses or screens etc?

Thanks for the help

[AndyMosh]

Can't find an edit button for my post but I ordered some Elkmaster 10mm tips from Amazon, turns out they didn't have stock so they replaced them with Blue Diamond which i'm sort of disappointed about.

[jaffa.johnson]

Could you try and explain this a little better? If I try and understand you, you mean I won't feel the grain of the wood anyway but if I use wire wool I won't feel any grain at all and it will be TOO smooth?

Which grit sandpaper would be better?

Also do you mean a microfibre cloth? That you would use for your glasses or screens etc?

Thanks for the help

Yes I meant microfibre cloth.

Using wire wool makes the cue less smooth as it puts holes in between the wood where the grain is. If you remove the grain then you will feel this when cueing as the cue wont be round and smooth.

You will nearly always fill grain when using ash but the more grain which is removed, the more you feel it and it not being smooth.

Maybe use wire wool on the bottom of the cue where you dont cue to see and feel what I mean.

Anything from 600 grit above should work, maybe buy a package from ebay which has different grades in. Then you can work your way through the grades going upwards, say 600, then 1000 etc etc.