I think it's time for some maintenence on my cue, some questions :)

[DeanH]

Could you try and explain this a little better? If I try and understand you, you mean I won't feel the grain of the wood anyway but if I use wire wool I won't feel any grain at all and it will be TOO smooth?

Which grit sandpaper would be better?

In ash shafts the grain is usually filled in with a grain-filler, which is usually coloured to enhance the grain. If this filler is removed - say by wirewool - then you will feel the grain more because of the trenches left by the absent filler. Filler will have to be replaced to fill the trenches as you can not sand these down.
You say you "are not that fuss with touch" but then say you do not want to feel anything on your bridge, this is what I meant about touch, and as well meaning just holding the cue, so basically you want a shaft as smooth as possible, so you do not want any grain-filler missing

I have 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper (off ebay), but you do not have to that extreme. If you think the sandpaper is too rough, even before trying it on any wood, it probably is
Just take care not to rotate the shaft too much as you sand, only sand with the grain, if you cross-grain it you can get some horrible scratches that will take serious work to remove

[AndyMosh]

Ah I understand now, yes I want it to be as smooth as possible well i'll buy a pack and start at a 1000 and work my way to 2000 as I think 600 might be a bit rough, it will take more elbow grease but i'll stand up to the challenge haha and I will sand with the grain, thats the only thing I learnt from highschool woodwork lessons

I'll order a pack now and also order a big microfibre cloth to buff the cue after 12-24 hours.

This might be a silly question, but how long do you normally buff it for? Until you are happy with the finish?

[jaffa.johnson]

Try until your happy its smooth, protected etc.

If smoothness is a major player for you then I would try a maple cue as this can be made ultra smooth.

[DeanH]

When you are ready to oil, make sure the cue is free of dust, etc.
I use kitchen paper towells to appear a small amount of the raw linseed oil, you will be surprised how far a little will go. Get a nice even coat on the wood making sure you do not get it on the tip (fit fitted yet). Then with a dry piece of kitchen towell, wipe the cue once to remove any excess. Then let dry, usually overnight but if the wood is dry you may be able to do another application sooner. When dry, more dry kitchen towell to wipe the cue, check the cue visually and "touch" wise (), a gentle rub down with your finest sandpaper, wipe clean, then apply the oil again. Repeat.
I do not know how many applications the professional cue-makers apply, but I have found that 3-4 is usually more than enough.
After the last application, no sanding, just buff with the kitchen touch and a cotton cloth and away you go :snooker:

[AndyMosh]

I can't really afford another cue and I love the look of ash cues, I can come to a comprimise between smoothness and looks

Ordered some sand paper and the micro fibre cloth, thanks for changing me from the steel wool

[AndyMosh]

When you are ready to oil, make sure the cue is free of dust, etc.
I use kitchen paper towells to appear a small amount of the raw linseed oil, you will be surprised how far a little will go. Get a nice even coat on the wood making sure you do not get it on the tip (fit fitted yet). Then with a dry piece of kitchen towell, wipe the cue once to remove any excess. Then let dry, usually overnight but if the wood is dry you may be able to do another application sooner. When dry, more dry kitchen towell to wipe the cue, check the cue visually and "touch" wise (), a gentle rub down with your finest sandpaper, wipe clean, then apply the oil again. Repeat.
I do not know how many applications the professional cue-makers apply, but I have found that 3-4 is usually more than enough.
After the last application, no sanding, just buff with the kitchen touch and a cotton cloth and away you go :snooker:

Thanks for explaining the process I bought some lint free cloths to apply the linseed oil so I'll use one for applying and one for removing excess, about removing the excess, do you instantly wipe it down to remove the excess or give it a few minutes to soak in?

[jaffa.johnson]

I hope it all works out for u.

Good luck. Let us know how u get on

[AndyMosh]

Thanks for explaining the process, I have already bought some lint free cloths to apply the oil, after you've applied the oil evenly do you instantly wipe any excess away or leave a few minutes to let it soak in?

[DeanH]

Thanks for explaining the process, I have already bought some lint free cloths to apply the oil, after you've applied the oil evenly do you instantly wipe any excess away or leave a few minutes to let it soak in?

Immediately, the wipe is to catch any lumps/drips/runs that "may" be on the cue. They will be enough oil to soak in and do the job.
I say "may" because usually you are applying such a small amount that you tend not to get lumps/drips/runs as it is not paint you are applying here
Have you any photos of what you have, before&after like
Once you are over 10 posts you can add photos to your album and post them.
Many forum members are interested in that sort of thing
All the best

[AndyMosh]

Immediately, the wipe is to catch any lumps/drips/runs that "may" be on the cue. They will be enough oil to soak in and do the job.
I say "may" because usually you are applying such a small amount that you tend not to get lumps/drips/runs as it is not paint you are applying here
Have you any photos of what you have, before&after like
Once you are over 10 posts you can add photos to your album and post them.
Many forum members are interested in that sort of thing
All the best

Ah I understand, my cue is at a friends house at the minute, going to play a few hours tomorrow, i'll take some before pictures when I get back

Should be a few days before all the required items come through the post, instead of using the glass dent buffer i'm going to try a glass and if that doesnt work i'll do the methods with water/steam, thats a last resort though

[jaffa.johnson]

How manys dents/kinks are there in the shaft?

I havent tried this myself but I believe wrapping the shaft in newspaper/brown paper and using steam from an iron or wall paper stripper will pull the wood back out.

[AndyMosh]

How manys dents/kinks are there in the shaft?

I havent tried this myself but I believe wrapping the shaft in newspaper/brown paper and using steam from an iron or wall paper stripper will pull the wood back out.

Only about 3/4, really minor I try to take the best care but I was alot younger when I first bought this cue, i'm going to try the marble/glass approach because a lot of people say it works, i'll do that and then continue to sand it and oil it over

[sunny3909]

Use 600 grit sandpaper on the small dents till it evens out and then use a 1000 grit sandpaper on the whole shaft and apply some raw linseed oil and leave it overnight.Buff the shaft with a cloth in the morning,it will make the cue very smooth and well finished.
Use slightly damp cloth if the cue feels sticky and buff it with a dry cloth instantly.

[AndyMosh]

Use 600 grit sandpaper on the small dents till it evens out and then use a 1000 grit sandpaper on the whole shaft and apply some raw linseed oil and leave it overnight.Buff the shaft with a cloth in the morning,it will make the cue very smooth and well finished.
Use slightly damp cloth if the cue feels sticky and buff it with a dry cloth instantly.

I'm going to try and use the glass technique for the dents, I dont want to sand it in until its smooth as it'd probably leave the cue thinner on the side of the dent, thanks for the heads up though

[mick 142]

To remove the bents out of the cue boil the kettle and put the shaft were the dents are in the steam . the steam will swell the wood take it out and let it cool you will find the wood has swollen lightly smooth off with fine wet and dry then put linseed oil on and buff job done and saved you about £30.00