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how to make a screw more than 3 metres and put enough spin in close distance?

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  • how to make a screw more than 3 metres and put enough spin in close distance?

    hello, I play snooker 2 years (can make full cross or lineup not too hard) but cannot control cue ball in a game - not give enough spin how to fitness muscle or how to improve spin ball like a skilled player?


    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4j8FK4ec1I
    Last edited by v1lius; 22 January 2012, 05:06 PM. Reason: mistake

  • #2
    its all down to timing not muscle strength

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    • #3
      As Jim said its all about timing , the more relaxed you are the better you will get through the ball . Start off close range and gradually increse as you get the hang of it .

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      • #4
        thank you. But i used a alastic rubber for muscle and my spin increased and how Judd Trump can screw a lot - for me he is like an anabolic, when he make shot, muscles help as well. can it be?

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        • #5
          Originally Posted by v1lius View Post
          ...and how Judd Trump can screw a lot...
          Well, he's young, raging hormones... etc etc... Huh, I still remember when I was at his age... anyway... I digress.

          Ok, so looking at Judd, all skin and bones but the amount of spin he imparts to the cue ball is amazing and effortless. It's all about the timing and having a good follow through, not hard muscles.

          Like Hotpot said, you can start with easier screw shots. For e.g. put the cue ball a foot away from the green spot (or yellow if you are left-handed) then try and screw the cue ball back. Gradually increase the distance between the white and the green spot. You'll get to a point when the white stops dead instead of screwing back. That's when you have to improve on your technique in order to get the white back.

          Have fun!! (and oh, try to do it on a fast table. It's more encouraging and you'll pick up the skill faster... and you can't blame the table if the ball doesn't screw)
          When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!

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          • #6
            thanks and timing means i need to Talk to my self about speed? (shot - slow faster faaster faaaster)? or better ->->>->>>? or imagine the timing?

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by v1lius View Post
              thanks and timing means i need to Talk to my self about speed? (shot - slow faster faaster faaaster)? or better ->->>->>>? or imagine the timing?
              That's getting too technical and beyond my depth... probably a coach or a more experienced player can better explain it.

              Btw, saw your line-ups. Well done!! How about posting some screw shots at increasing distances, since that's what you are querying on.
              When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!

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              • #8
                v1lius:

                The suggestion to start out with easy screw shots is a good one however all of the comments above have missed the most important points you need in order to screw the ball like a pro (timing is very important though). The three points are:

                1. Although this may seem obvious and stupid for me to mention, ENSURE YOU ARE ACTUALLY HITTING THE BOTTOM OF THE CUEBALL! The reason I say this is a lot of players believe they are hitting the cueball low but in actual fact are hitting it higher than they think because they are unconciously afraid of mis-cueing!.

                2. The next point is also somewhat obvious but a lot of players do it wrong. When changing the height of the tip against the cueball use your BRIDGE HAND only and do NOT raise or lower the butt of the cue.

                3. And the last and most important thing is the length of the backswing. Power in a shot in snooker comes exclusively from the length of the backswing however too many players think as you do that it comes from the muscle power we can put into the acceleration and this only leads to striking the cueball higher and also dragging the butt off the line of aim because the player will close his grip too early in the delivery and start decelerating the cue before the time of striking the cueball which is the absolute worst thing you can do.

                So in summary, start with something simple like brown on spot, cueball 1ft behind it and straight into the green pocket. Now keep the grip loose and relaxed until the time of striking the cueball. Make sure you chalk the cue for every shot and make certain you are DROPPING THE BRIDGE to get the tip to the bottom of the cueball (a little less than one tip width off the cloth).

                Now a nice SLOW, SMOOTH AND LONG backswing and then smoothly deliver the cue with no upper body movement and drive the grip hand through to the chest BUT REMEMBER TO KEEP THE GRIP RELAXED AND DO NOT TIGHTEN IT UNTIL AFTER THE CUEBALL HAS BEEN STRUCK.

                If you do all of the above correctly I guarantee even on a slower table you will be able to screw back into the black area of the table easily although I do recommend you try and practice this on a faster table.

                Terry
                Last edited by Terry Davidson; 22 January 2012, 02:37 PM.
                Terry Davidson
                IBSF Master Coach & Examiner

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                • #9
                  I seriously struggle with screw shots aswell. Going to try some of the advice in here next time at the club. I feel my problem is not following through enough or my acceleration isnt right.

                  I like you posting a video here, i never thought of that. Might have to do something similar myself. Would be good to get a look at my stance etc so i dont get into any bad habits early in my snooker career

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                  • #10
                    To be honest I bet a lot of players could actually screw the ball a lot further on a brand new cloth with table heaters on than on your average old thicker club cloth that has varying degrees of temperature.
                    Also some cues have a lot more response than others, Trumps current cue has a lot more than his old cue craft where he very rarely had the same level of cue power as he produces now.

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                    • #11
                      thank you!

                      1. Timing
                      2. only grip high
                      3. backswing lenght
                      4. correct cue ball hit
                      5. lose grip

                      left to put to head

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                      • #12
                        my cloth is good - strachan tournament, but (by the way) table wright made black ball pockets 1 centimeter smaller - is it good? i asked him Why? he: it is your table standart, i cannot change pocket size

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                        • #13
                          v1lius:

                          I would say making the black pockets tighter than template is not a good way to go as it will sap the confidence of players when the black juggles in the pocket a lot. 1cm is quite a difference when you consider you are already playing to a partially closed pocket from the black spot and there is not a lot of room for error.

                          However, for players learning the game I advocate pockets which are easier then normal as then the players start to concentrate more on the positional side of things sooner, but there are some members here who advocate having tighter pockets, the argument being when they play on tables with normal pockets they will seem easier.

                          If you think about it, when a player is getting good position all the pots become easier and a good positional player doesn't really care how tight the pockets are assuming they will still take a ball played accurately along the cushion.

                          In your post #11, I'm not sure what you mean by point #2, 'only grip high' although perhaps it is your command of English that is throwing me off a bit. I would say 'only grip loose and maintain that grip pressure loose until the time of striking the cueball'.

                          Terry
                          Terry Davidson
                          IBSF Master Coach & Examiner

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                          • #14
                            I bow Terry, but I dont think you can "tell" someone how to screw, or rather, you can tell them until you are blue in the face, and they still wont get it. Showing is the way to learn, and as we cant "show" over the internet, it is hard to teach anyone how to screw, and the stun run through is imposible to "tell" how its done.

                            It's all about touch.

                            Pratice is the only way to learn after watching or being shown.

                            My advise would be (if you only want to learn how to screw) is to forget about the pot as this isnt what you are after, keep the butt low, hit the ball low and dont hit it hard.

                            it wont be long until you start to screw it back 6 to 12 inches, then you can keep at it until you git it right.

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                            • #15
                              Terry's advice is correct. My favoutire shots are normally the screw shots. I normally would position through stun and screw in the most of my game and even then I cant play long power screws or deep screws; those arent easy. The coaches help us understand they are easy the pros make them look easy but when you put that in practice- it is really very hard to achieve and requires a disciplined practice in order to achieve consistent deep screws.
                              "I am still endeavouring to meet someone funnier than my life" - Q. M. Sidd

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