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The best cue for you?

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  • The best cue for you?

    Hi All
    I have been playing snooker now for just over 2 years, my progress is gradual and in the 2 years i have had 3 cues, my latest is a Master Cue classic which is ok.

    I have read in this forum and others players ordering custom hand made cues specific for them, it doesn't matter from which cuemaker at this time its not important, however, my question is how does one know what is the best specifications when choosing a cue.

    I myself just bought the first 2 blindly from ebay, they were cheap so didn't matter. My last one i went to a snooker dealer and was able to try the different cues in the store, he had a table too so i was able practice a bit to get a feel for the cue i bought. it wasn't the most expensive but felt good to play with.

    I have always felt that this is the best way to choose a cue, but it some times is not possible, say i wanted a cue form , mike Wooldridge, Trever White, john Parris or Mike Coutts....etc
    then i would have to give them my specifications to make.

    to tell you the truth i haven't a clue what is best for me, interms of length, weight, balance point, material...etc

    So how does one know unless you have played with a certain cue and it suited your game. i wouldn't want to spend £300-400+ on a cue that i wasn't sure that it would suit me.

    how does every one here who has ordered a custom made one do this? is it just faith in the cuemaker going by their reputation or do you have the technical ability to know what would suite your game.

    I would be facsinated to know.

    Alabbadi

  • #2
    You get what you pay for. The top cuemakers simply don't have time to work on 'stock' cues as their talents are in demand for custom cues.

    The problem is that most people who fork out hundreds for cues at a time don't even realise the difference in the quality they're getting. They buy them because they can afford them.

    I've no idea what standard you play at, but unless you're the sort of player who makes the odd ton here and there, I wouldn't spend anything more over £150 for a cue/case and extensions set.

    Comment


    • #3
      I've not ordered a custom cue, so I haven't had to give specifications. I need to try a few more different cues to get an idea what difference in feeling shifting the balance point actually has, for example. One thing I'd like to try is a maple cue of similar spec to my current cue, to get a feel for what sort of difference maple might make.

      One thing I have noticed when using other cues, is that a slightly smaller butt diameter might be better for me. My hands aren't large (I have perhaps very slightly shorter fingers relative to my height) and when I tried a friends cue, which was supposedly the same butt diameter, it felt smaller and more comfortable .. I think it may have been only 0.5mm smaller, but it's weird the difference in feeling I got from that.

      I know exactly the measurements of my current cue, so that would be a start if you were thinking of getting a custom you could simply order one to the spec of your current cue. That said, many custom cue makers recommend certain limits to each dimension i.e. most don't like making cues longer than 58-59 inches, whether it be because they don't have the lathe space, or because they feel there is no need and the extra length ruins the "feel" of the cue (I've heard it said).

      As for what sort of cue is 'best' for a player, I think most people will play best with a cue they are familiar with - so constantly chopping and changing is only going to be detrimental in the long term. That said, many people notice an immediate improvement the first time they try a new cue. I think this is just what happens when you use a new cue, and start to notice the feeling of shots more. It wears off and you end up back at square one.

      So..

      If you have terrible technique, then I reckon get some coaching and only once you've gotten your technique sorted should you start to think about a custom cue. How you set up, as well as your height will dictate the spec of the cue you need, so there's no point getting one (esp a non-standard size) then changing your technique and needing a new one.

      Then, unless the cue you have is limiting you in some way i.e. it's too short so that you're constantly having to use the mini butt or similar extension, or it's too long so that you have a load of cue (6+ inches) sticking out the back, or it's so heavy that delicate shots are very difficult, or it's so light that it feels like the white is hitting it around and not the other way round.. then I reckon stick with it.

      Unless of course you have a cheap/nasty one and simply want a nicer looking/feeling cue, in which case order a custom cue. If you're not sure of specs, order one to the standard measurements (most cue makers have similar standard measurements) and give that a go. Worst case you can sell it on (you'll have loads of potential buyers as it's standard spec).

      My 2p
      "Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
      - Linus Pauling

      Comment


      • #4
        If it's long, hard, has a tip and feels good in my hand then I can play with it. I don't have much preference when it comes to cues.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally Posted by alabadi View Post
          ...how does every one here who has ordered a custom made one do this? is it just faith in the cuemaker going by their reputation or do you have the technical ability to know what would suite your game.

          I would be facsinated to know.

          Alabbadi
          Hi Alabbadi... For me, it's pretty much about faith in the cue maker through reputation, although I do know the specs I prefer. I figured these top cue makers must be doing something quite right for a long time to have earned that reputation for making good cues.

          I am somewhat finicky and a little vain. I want a cue that's built especially for me. It not only has to play well but also look great. It has to be made to high standards with quality materials. I also have a thing for those beautifully turned exotic woods and some of these custom cues look fantastic. Those are the reasons why I went for custom cues.

          Buying a cue without first trying it out is to take a leap of faith. Maybe an experienced cue maker can build a cue to hit in a certain way to some extent , e.g. stiffer, softer, more flex etc, that's all. It's quite subjective. I don't think anyone can guarantee you will absolutely fall in love with how their cue plays. Aesthetics, yes. Quality, yes. Accurate specs, yes. But feel? Never, imo.

          I believe there is no holy grail of a cue. If you do get a cue you are reasonably comfortable with, then that's the one. What's left to do is to practise, practise and practise with it until you get so used to its characteristics or feel. Of course, if you can afford to and would like to give yourself a treat, by all means go for a customised one by the top cue makers. Then you can find out for yourself. But I'd get one with specs similar to what I'm used to so at least the new cue won't feel so foreign, because it will definitely feel different, for better or for worse.


          Cheers...
          When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!

          Comment


          • #6
            I have owned a lot of cues from all the top cue makers and some cheap cue's brought of ebay. It has been a long hard and expensive struggle trying to find the one. I changed my spec's so many times it's unreal. If I could give you any advice it would be not to rush in and buy an expensive cue. All but a few lose there value very quickly, a bit like buying a new car.
            You can get a cue set of ebay with a case for around £60, I know a lot of ppl think these are trash but I have actually had some good ones.
            However in you want a great value well made cue then best Dave at master craft. He has never let me down and I put his work up there with the top cue makers. If you of average build I would start with an average cue
            57" length
            29-30 mm butt
            9.5mm tip
            balance at around 17.5

            Then just trust your feelings as to what feed back the cue is giving you.

            Good luck
            Last edited by cazmac1; 7 June 2012, 07:36 PM. Reason: spelling

            Comment


            • #7
              Good Day, Alabadi,
              I would suggest you get familiar with the many types of tips available, with a little practice you can change a tip very quickly yourself, buy a whole bunch of different tips and try them out on the cue's you presently have, this is much cheaper way to experiment at first. Also try out your friends cues to see how they feel, ask about the tips they use and how they taper there tips as well.
              Hope this helps you out,
              Cheers, Rolly C. sends
              I try hard, play hard and dont always succeed, at first.!!!!:snooker:

              Comment


              • #8
                thanks guys for the info, i think ill be sticking with the one i have a the moment, its not cheap either cost me 150 a master cue classic.

                i need to improve my game a lot before i even consider a made to measure cue, the way i played today i don't think i could have done worse playing with a broom stick.

                Alabbadi

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi alabadi. With regards to cues and custom made cues. I am probably biassed when it comes to custom cues. my first ever cue was a riley burwat handed down from my grandfather. I technically still own this cue. But getting it back from my father has proven somewhat difficult this past 10 years!!! I had a few cues growing up mainly from craftsman cues at Kippax(i'll come onto this a bit more later). These were just cues from the rack. As my game improved it was around the time i was growing up and becoming taller at around 16 years old. I realised that the cue i was using was too short, as my arms were getting longer. Standard length of cues back then were mainly 57-57.5. I didn't want to get rid of my cue what i was playing with because i'd gone from making 30 breaks at 13-14 years old to making century breaks at 16 -17 years old. So i had a joint put in the cue to make it longer. This was the worst mistake i ever did. the cue was ruined. The balance point had shifted and i could not play with it anymore. I soon changed cues, with help from my mum(£££££). I knew Dave and Simon at Kippax quite well so I had a custom cue made with the help of Dave he kind of sussed out what length would be right for me. This was 58.5 inches. i've never looked back since. I collect cues and have a lot of cues around the 58 inches mark. i can use these cues also. But anything around 57.5 I tend to struggle with. now this may just be all in my mind. But i know for a fact if i ever use a shorter cue then I do not generate the power that i can when using my 58.5 inche cues. I have had several cues made over the years. Main reason for this is that i'm still on the lookout and probably will be for a while for the perfect cue. The nearest i've ever come to the perfect cue was a very early Tony Glover cue. The tip size and the length were perfect. The grain and the feel of the cue was smooth and nice to feel. However the weight of the cue was only 16oz. It was a plain ebony butt cue. I can honestly say the best cue I have ever owned and still have now is my Craftsman exclusive snakewood custom made cue. The cue was made in 2006. Unfortunately my eye sight is not as good as it once was so I struggle with the 9mm tip now. Especially on long shots. So i'm now selling the cue to generate some cash to buy older cues and an en suite bathroom..... Don't ask!!!!

                  If you want to improve your game then stick with what you know for the time being. I wouldn't change. As your muscles, your hand eye co ordination, your feel become acustomed to the weight and balance of the cue. its just like driving a car and using the break peddle. If you used you left foot to break in stead of your right then you and your passengers would suffer whiplash. Its because your right foot has trained itself with your brain to know the feel of the break. In my opinion that's what happens with a snooker cue. Your body and brain get use to the feel and weight.
                  Back to craftsman. you said you've not tried many cues and not sure of weight and size etc. Then why not have a trip up to craftsman cues. They have a full size table in the showroom and have over 300 cues on display. You can use everyone of them if you want. Different spec for you to try. You don't have to buy any or spend any money. But atleast you will know if any feel right. you only live 30 miles away if that. So get up there. Speak to Simon. He'll guide you wisely....
                  Anyway i've rambled on enough. I'm actually at work on nights. So its passed some time for me. Good luck with your game.

                  Micahel
                  Always a pleasure

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks Micahal for the lengthy explanation, your probably right i don't see why at this time i should get another cue, firstly my game is not to a standard that it would make any difference i feel, secondly i can't afford a decent hand made right now and thirdly i am still at the stage discovering what would becst suite me.

                    i think with cues its a bit of vanity, because to be honest any decent player can play with most cues, however we all like a nice pretty cue that is good on the eye, feels nice and smooth and is well balanced.

                    i think what i am really struggling with is not the cue but the tip, i don't seem to be able to be totally happy with many that i have had.i seem to be switching to different ones to find one that really suites me. i have had Elk, Talisman, Kamui black and now i have just purchased Mike Wooldridge super tip. i'm hoping that these tips do what it says on the tin, although they do seem to be quite hard. i have only had it on for a couple of days so i will not pass judgement yet.

                    i read in some article that a cue is only as good as the tip so it seems that this is as important or even more than the quality of the cue. and once again i am not sure if a larger or smaller tip is best, my cue is a 9-9.5 mm i usually buy 10mm tips and trim them flush with the ferrel.
                    Maybe as you mentioned Macahal my eyesight isn't as good as it was i'm over 40 now so a larger tip might suit me better i might give it a go after this one that i have just put on, in the end if it doesn't suite me i can still trim it.

                    Alabbadi

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by alabadi View Post
                      thanks guys for the info, i think ill be sticking with the one i have a the moment, its not cheap either cost me 150 a master cue classic.

                      i need to improve my game a lot before i even consider a made to measure cue, the way i played today i don't think i could have done worse playing with a broom stick.

                      Alabbadi
                      I have tried a few Master cues. They're as good as any in terms of playability, imo and the workmanship is pretty consistent too. You've got a good cue there.

                      You are quite right about the tips. I think a dodgy cue can play half decent with a good tip but a good cue with a tinny tip is quite useless. I quite like Aurora tips but there are so many types and brands available, I'm sure you'll find one you prefer. Easier to change tips than cues...
                      When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!

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