cue tips please help

[ADR147]

adr is back now. it's in Cap d'Agde, not monaco!

[DeanH]

adr is back now. it's in Cap d'Agde, not monaco!

and only a 150footer
seriously though, sounds lovely, welcome back

[jim evans]

adr is back now. it's in Cap d'Agde, not monaco!

ive been there in it were no nudes is gd nudes hang about

[ADR147]

ive been there in it were no nudes is gd nudes hang about

lots of nudes about - it's the south of france!

[lulu11louise]

Hi all,
I'm in Kent near Sittingbourne
I've just received my Pool Baron soft tip through the post and although it's soft it's not quite as soft as the original tip
But I'll give it a few trial runs of a few games I think
what tip clamp would you recommend please? I'm relatively new to tip changing to be honest with you but been playing pool for a few years now ...... absolutely love the game, can't get enough of pool
Thanks all Lou

[Particle Physics]

Hi all,
I'm in Kent near Sittingbourne
I've just received my Pool Baron soft tip through the post and although it's soft it's not quite as soft as the original tip
But I'll give it a few trial runs of a few games I think
what tip clamp would you recommend please? I'm relatively new to tip changing to be honest with you but been playing pool for a few years now ...... absolutely love the game, can't get enough of pool
Thanks all Lou

Don't use a tip clamp, it take ages for the cement to set and if used incorrectly, it can mark the shaft or even dent it. This is not a tool for a novice and most folk don't bother with them, it's outdated tech. Use superglue gel. Make sure the ferrule and wood are clean, with a stanley knife, Swann Morton medical scalpal or ferrule tool. Rub the underside of the tip along a piece of abrasive paper on a hard surface, so it's leather only, and ultra flat. Apply superglue gel to both surfaces, usually as blobs in the middle of both, to achieve total coverage and a vacuum fit. Press down hard (make sure you've got gloves on) and hold for a minute. Leave the cue for an hour, so the glue in the middle cures properly (this prevents tips falling off down the line, the glue will not fully set in ten seconds as some folk incorrectly think). Trim any overhang to the ferrule using a stanley knife, scalpal, broad gauge file/joe porper trimming tool/abrasive paper. Dome the tip if it's not domed already with a file, tip domer tool, or just abrasive paper.

There is also an aero grade super glue you could use, that sets really fast, but getting hold of it is tricky, so just stick to super glue gel. Don't use regular super glue, it runs down the shaft and hands.

Your tip doesn't feel as soft as the old one yet, because you haven't played it in. It will get softer, all tips do.

You can also watch Mike Woodridge's video tip changing guide on TSF, just type those words into the TSF search engine above to view it.

[prince07799]

http://www.handmadecues.com/info/30-retipping.htm take a look at this Lou it should help

[lulu11louise]

thank you so very much you're all lovely
thank you
Lou

[lulu11louise]

hi just seen the video clip of tip replacement
it certainly looks easy enough but when I get my hands on it you can bet your bottom dollar
something will go wrong and I don't want to mess up my nice new cue
what to do? hmmmm .....decisions, decisions
ah well, wish me luck and watch this space
Lou

[prince07799]

just take your time its not rocket science, if you have a small piece of masking tape to put a round the ferrule before you put tip on, this help if you put to much glue on and stop you marking the ferrule when you are shaping the tip

[lulu11louise]

hi well, first attempt didn't achieve placing tip on square or should I say round lol
oh well, so started again taking it off flatting it down etc,...... you know all that stuff
2nd attempt went better I now have my nice new tip on my nice new cue all thanks to all of you thank you all so much
I couldn't have done it with out you all, and that is the truth of the matter!
Lou

[lulu11louise]

Hi all, Well, I went to pool hall and used my new tip yesterday and I have to say it's very nice to play with
the tip isn't as soft as I would have liked but as you say it may soften in time and it stayed on my cue which is a bonus

I also bought a 2nd hand cue about a week ago which I only intend to use for power breaks it's a very nice straight cue for this and I am getting better although all things take time, don't they? Well the tip on this cue seems hard enough and I am assuming I need a hard tip for this action of power breaks what hard tip would you guys recommend I get for this cue, if it would make a difference please?
also I have flatted down the wooden piece of the shaft with wet and dry quite abrasive, and 1500 vehicle paper as I don't like the lacquer finish it had as lacquer seems to stop the cue gliding smoothly over the bridge hand, it has a very nice smooth finish now what would you guys recommend I use to protect the wood oil (which one?) or wax (bees wax?) or?
thanks for your help Lou

[DeanH]

If you have removed the varnish then you should protect the wood somehow, my preference is Raw Linseed oil.
There are many threads on applying this and other oils/waxes. It does come down to personal previous experience and preference.
But the main tip is here is to apply as little oil as possible each time. This can be as little as few drops onto the paper towel/lintless cloth. I hold the paper to the top of the linseed bottle and tilt once.
Wipe off with a dry piece of paper towel/lintless cloth, allow to dry (usually over night). Buff rigourously with a dry towel/cloth, then check for dry spots and repeat if necessary.
Do not over apply at any one time and dont repeat too often as you will get a sticky result and this is terrible to get rid of, mainly by buffing and more buffing
Once you get a good result, now leave it, some people say repeat monthly, half-yearly, or yearly, others say if you have a good quality cue you should never oil it.
In your case as you have removed the original varnish you will need to keep an eye on it, and probably wont need treatment more than 6-monthly or even yearly. Depending on how much it is used.
But as mentioned in the links below, using a very lightly damp (hardly wet at all) cloth during and after play will remove the most dirt, sweet and chalk dust to help maintain your cue.
See http://www.handmadecues.com/info/20-cuecare.htm
and
www.parriscues.com/cue_care/

[Dave Walton]

Your tip will more likely get harder as it beds in not softer.

Finishing your cue, you should use raw linseed oil, you can thin it with white spirit, 4 parts oil to 1 part spirit for the first few coats. You've already sanded the cue so you should have it smooth. Apply the oil with kitchen towel literally rubbing the oil into the cue, leave for 10-20 mins to soak in and then wipe off all the excess oil until there's no residue left on the kitchen towel, then leave the cue preferably in a rack to dry for at least 24hrs but better to leave it longer if you can. Then buff the cue to help cure the oil, its then best to matt the cue down by gently rubbing it with 0000 grade wire wool before applying the next coat of oil. Give the cue 3-4 coats and you'll end up with a nice finish :-)

[vmax4steve]

If you want the softest premium tip then you only have one choice and that is a Blue Velvet made by Cannon.