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hi guys, im trying to refelt my 9' table for the first time and was just curious on what the measurements for all the markings are as the "professional" that installed it done a real crap job on everything. thanks heaps
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The baulk line is traditionally one fifth of the way up the table as it usually coincides with the join in the first two slates. A full-size dimension is 29 inches from the baulk cushion, so I guess for a 9' table I gues 21¼" would be a good measurement.
The full-size D is 11½" in radius - usually equating to a third of the playing surface width. That factors down to 8⅝" but you may need to bear in mind that while the table has three-quarters dimensions, the balls may not. So you will want to check that there is adequate room between the baulk colours when spotted. (When I was in hospital as a youngster, there was a four-foot table which had bigger balls than were suitable. At the start of a frame, the yellow and brown were less than a ball's width apart, causing obvious problems right from the break-off!)
The blue spot is, obviously, directly between the middle pockets, and the pink spot should be midway between one middle pocket and the opposite corner. But again, depending on the size of the balls, this may leave inadequate distance between the back of the pack and the spotted black, so you may wish to compromise this slightly.
The black spot is 12¾" from the face of the top cushion. When the rules were originally metricated, this was specified as one-eleventh of the playing surface length. The raw figure 12¾ factors down to between 9½ and 9⅝ inches, which should be pretty close to one-eleventh of the playing surface, depending on the width of the cushion rail at each end.
If you want to absolutely maintain the potting angle of the black off its spot to a top corner, I suggest you mark a position 12¾ inches from the pocket, just under three feet from the pocket (i.e. as if it was a corner pocket on a full-size) and then take the black spot as being the point where the resultant line intersects with the centre line of the table.
All the above is purely based on full-size measurements and Statman logic; it should not be taken as any form of official guideline. -
Further to my earlier answer, I've found this useful diagram:
http://www.dynamicbilliard.ca/snooker-table-layout
...which does seem to blow some of my logic out of the window!Comment
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