Cue Oil. What to use?

[wideride96]

Always been a Boiled Linseed Oil guy but changed to natural Orange Oil and love it!

[ADR147]

Always been a Boiled Linseed Oil guy but changed to natural Orange Oil and love it!

ditto - I have used it pure myself but it does darken the shaft a lot.

[dom979]

ditto - I have used it pure myself but it does darken the shaft a lot.

Would you recommend thinning it out then? If so what with?

[David Pleym]

Hi Dom

Used to use raw linseeed oil and it was OK but in the past 18 monts or so I have been using Mike Wooldridge's own oil both on my Black Legend and Parris cues. It works beautifully for me though it has darkened the shaft on the Parris a little. Takes a few applications to get it just so but if you follow his advice on a quick once over with 0000 gauge wire wool in between applications and persevere over a period it comes up lovely. Non sticky and quite lustrous on the ebony butts. Super smooth in the hand. It isn't the cheapest but the bottle size should do you quite a number of applications unless you have a completely untreated shaft. Dont know what is in it mind - its a "secret recipe". Though I'm biased cause I love the smell of the stuff!


Cheers


David

[dom979]

Hi Dom

Used to use raw linseeed oil and it was OK but in the past 18 monts or so I have been using Mike Wooldridge's own oil both on my Black Legend and Parris cues. It works beautifully for me though it has darkened the shaft on the Parris a little. Takes a few applications to get it just so but if you follow his advice on a quick once over with 0000 gauge wire wool in between applications and persevere over a period it comes up lovely. Non sticky and quite lustrous on the ebony butts. Super smooth in the hand. It isn't the cheapest but the bottle size should do you quite a number of applications unless you have a completely untreated shaft. Dont know what is in it mind - its a "secret recipe". Though I'm biased cause I love the smell of the stuff!


Cheers


David

Hi David,

Thanks for the reply, I use Mike Wooldridge oil on my playing cue as it's the best finish I've found so far. I like to experiment on my other cues and occasionally refinish cues for people down at the club.I was just curious about the orange oil as i've heard it mentioned a few times now and one of the guys I play with regualrly was on about trying it.

Regards

Dom

[narl]

Some cuemakers seem to disagree on what type of linseed oil to use, some recommend boiled others recommend raw, not sure what the difference between them is.

[ADR147]

Some cuemakers seem to disagree on what type of linseed oil to use, some recommend boiled others recommend raw, not sure what the difference between them is.

there are driers in boiled oil.

[Big Splash!]

No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!

[ADR147]

No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!

it is called a key.

[narl]

No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!

So cuemakers have been getting it wrong for over 100 years? Doubt it.

[Big Splash!]

it is called a key.

Wood soaks up oil, if it can't do so without abrasion; it's the wrong oil. My coffee table takes linseed oil. But I don't play snooker with it. Who wants to gum up a shot? Not me. Purer oils are the way fwd.

[Shockerz]

No linseed oil of any kind should ever touch a cue. God, imagine an oil that ruins the look of your shaft; not good. The oil should be as neutral as possible; it's applied to stop moisture warping bare wood and little else. Nor should any wire wool be used to apply the oil. Think about it, why would oil require an abrasive on wood?!

The John Parris cues have linseed oil all over? Website

[Fisherboi]

I'm using Howard product (Feed-N-Wax). It's blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil.
After applying about 2 times (each time I let the oil rest about 20min). It does finished nicely and silky smooth. But after a day game, the finishes seem fading off.
I have sweaty palms, those fading area are at the butt and about 6" below the tip where I use my left hand to hold the shaft while chalking with right.
Seem like the oil does not penetrate deep enough.
Should I just clean and oil the cue after every session or change to linseed oil instead?
It's a ash cue btw �� Would like to hear from you guys.
Thanks ~

[jonny66]

I'm using Howard product (Feed-N-Wax). It's blend of beeswax, carnauba wax, and orange oil.
After applying about 2 times (each time I let the oil rest about 20min). It does finished nicely and silky smooth. But after a day game, the finishes seem fading off.
I have sweaty plums, those fading area are at the butt and about 6" below the tip where I use my left hand to hold the shaft while chalking with right.
Seem like the oil does not penetrate deep enough.
Should I just clean and oil the cue after every session or change to linseed oil instead?
It's a ash cue btw �� Would like to hear from you guys.
Thanks ~

I'm not sure you should be holding the cue with them! :biggrin-new:

I think you mean sweaty palms, sweaty plums means something else completely

[Fisherboi]

I'm not sure you should be holding the cue with them! :biggrin-new:

I think you mean sweaty palms, sweaty plums means something else completely

God.. Thanks. Lol..