Timing

[Ramon]

Ramon, thank you very much for posting this clip! I find it extremely informative. In particular, I like how he draws the chart to explain the relationship. Every person's mind absorbs knowledge in its own unique way and for me, this type of mathematical explanation works perfectly. I especially noted how he said that this particular aspect is what separates a 40 break player from a century break player. Myself, I am a 40 break player in a match and beyond that consistency breaks down. In line up practice, of course I do much better, 60's and 70's often. My high break in line up is 93 and I always knew that particular break of 93 just somehow felt different in the delivery of the cue. I have gone back to look at the video of that break and sure enough, it is exactly as Nic Barrow describes. So I know that I can get that feeling of proper acceleration (timing) but this explanation tells me exactly how to do it consistently. This may raise my bar well above the 40's finally and put me on the right path to a century! Thanks again!

you're welcome my friend.
Glad it's useful to you.

Yeah , Nic is a good coach indeed.
consistently is the problem of many snooker players ( and i'm one of them ).
What you're doing here is very good . Looking for advice and instructions. and the rest of it depends on hard work and practice .

btw, 60's or 70's breaks is very good . my compliments.

I wish you many high breaks and hope you enjoy your game . :snooker:

[jonny66]

@xavier

Just in case you can'nt open the link i posted in my previous post ,Try this one . ( from 33:40 minutes until 40:00 minutes of the vid )

Thanks Rambers I've had that graph he drew in my head the past couple of days and it seems to be helping, that and Kevy that does the youtube snooker tips videos's mantra "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" I like that, even if it doesn't really make any sense.

I'd just been practising potting and I thought my timing was alright, but I had a few frames last night and I was 2 foot out of position every time I got a shot in among the balls, which led to frustration, which led to jabbing, which led to a night to forget. Hopefully next time will be better

[Slasher]

Timing means a few different things to different people. However, if we are talking about effortless cuepower (good reaction on the white ball) then it means one thing only, and that is the length of time that the cue tip is in contact with the white ball. For any given cue tip on a shot played at a given pace where the tip strikes the cue ball at a given spot, the longer that the tip is in contact with the cue ball, the more reaction you will get.
There has been a lot of confusion over this in recent years on this site. Some people have mistakenly come to the conclusion that the tip is always in contact with the cue ball for a particular length of time, and that this cannot be changed. This is just the opposite of the truth, the spread of disinformation by those who don't fully understand the difference between the scientific and religious methods.
The best way to lengthen to contact time between the tip and cue ball is to let the cue go through the cue ball with a loose grip. Don't force it.

Rubbish, been disproved many times

[Slasher]

Timing is the point along the stroke at which the tip contacts the cue ball.

[Csmith]

My preferred method of practicing timing is just hitting cue ball up and down and table, focusing on a smooth acceleration. After about 10 minutes I'll reintroduce the object ball, and try to maintain the same feel in my stroke. The object ball can do funny things, and tighten up your stroke which is why removing it helps me focus on quality of stroke.

I find that in match play when my timing is off, it's generally because I am not pulling the cue back far enough, resulting in a bit of a jab.

[Ramon]

Thanks Rambers I've had that graph he drew in my head the past couple of days and it seems to be helping, that and Kevy that does the youtube snooker tips videos's mantra "slow is smooth, smooth is fast" I like that, even if it doesn't really make any sense.

I'd just been practising potting and I thought my timing was alright, but I had a few frames last night and I was 2 foot out of position every time I got a shot in among the balls, which led to frustration, which led to jabbing, which led to a night to forget. Hopefully next time will be better

you're welcome Jonny 67

If it works for you , than stick to it my friend.
Glad you found it useful .

[fattail95]

Timing refers to the change in cue speed during contact with the cue ball, nothing more. The larger the acceleration during contact, the more spin will be generated. A longer contact time will allow a more gradual rate of acceleration to achieve a given amount of reaction, this is why Ronnie gets such great reaction on the cue ball with little apparent effort. This is because he has a large contact time with the cue ball (helped by the elbow drop, Stephen Lee does this as well), as well as accelerating at the correct point during delivery. It is not essential to have a long cue action to achieve good timing, but a longer cue action will allow you to hit the ball more softly, as there is more time spent in contact allowing a more gradual rate of accleration. You could build a machine to test this, as long as the machine is capable of accelerating the cue very very quickly (faster than any human), you could achieve a 10ft deep screw from baulk with a 1mm follow through after the white. As long as the cue is accelerating at a huge rate during this 1mm delivery (this is timing), the same spin will be achieved as a professional with a foot long plus follow through.

The problem most amateur players have is that they think its about cue speed when they are trying to apply spin. Now don't get me wrong cue speed is important, but it must be build up gradually and at the right time during delivery. Most players at the club will try to build as much cue speed as they can immediately during delivery, then during contact with the cue ball they cannot accelerate further. This often leads to a miscue as too much speed is generated too early, and the tip cannot get enough grip to "hold onto" the cue ball and slides under.

See this graph (black lines indicated contact time with the cue ball)



As you can see, the good cue action has a nice exponential curve as cue speed is built, and the acceleration occurs during contact with the ball (this is the timing). The bad cue action has zero acceleration through the ball, preventing any spin from being generated. Best that can be achieved here is a stun shot, which is why amateur players when trying to screw only get stun.

Hope that clears it up for everyone!

[alabadi]

where did you get this graph from, is it from an actual experiment?
brings back memories of my Engineering degree days, almost every day I was analysing some graph

[Erwan_BZH]

Timing refers to the change in cue speed during contact with the cue ball, nothing more. The larger the acceleration during contact, the more spin will be generated. A longer contact time will allow a more gradual rate of acceleration to achieve a given amount of reaction, this is why Ronnie gets such great reaction on the cue ball with little apparent effort. This is because he has a large contact time with the cue ball (helped by the elbow drop, Stephen Lee does this as well), as well as accelerating at the correct point during delivery. It is not essential to have a long cue action to achieve good timing, but a longer cue action will allow you to hit the ball more softly, as there is more time spent in contact allowing a more gradual rate of accleration. You could build a machine to test this, as long as the machine is capable of accelerating the cue very very quickly (faster than any human), you could achieve a 10ft deep screw from baulk with a 1mm follow through after the white. As long as the cue is accelerating at a huge rate during this 1mm delivery (this is timing), the same spin will be achieved as a professional with a foot long plus follow through.

The problem most amateur players have is that they think its about cue speed when they are trying to apply spin. Now don't get me wrong cue speed is important, but it must be build up gradually and at the right time during delivery. Most players at the club will try to build as much cue speed as they can immediately during delivery, then during contact with the cue ball they cannot accelerate further. This often leads to a miscue as too much speed is generated too early, and the tip cannot get enough grip to "hold onto" the cue ball and slides under.

See this graph (black lines indicated contact time with the cue ball)



As you can see, the good cue action has a nice exponential curve as cue speed is built, and the acceleration occurs during contact with the ball (this is the timing). The bad cue action has zero acceleration through the ball, preventing any spin from being generated. Best that can be achieved here is a stun shot, which is why amateur players when trying to screw only get stun.

Hope that clears it up for everyone!

Excellent post here. Spot on!

[Shockerz]

I like the graph.

I always hit a few shots at the beginning of every session to try and get the feel of the blue line as I'm always fighting the red line!!

[Dynamics]

Much more important for me is hitting the ball when everything is right. That is I've selected the line, it's the right line, i trust the line, I don't move and then I commit to striking. Timing used in the conventional sense is something you largely can't control for me, you just do it or don't. But timing everything is right is much more important

[Woody001]

Timing is the point along the stroke at which the tip contacts the cue ball.

This^^^.

The time at which the tip makes contact with the cue ball at the optimum time of the stroke (acceleration).

The amount of time the tip is in contact with the cue ball, is simply the amount of time the tip is in contact with the cue ball.