Indeed Semih, that's because those who know (WSA) prefer to keep everything secret and also there are other factors such as cushions and cloth to take into consideration as well which makes it more complicated. But I would say the main reason is that WSA keep some sort of copyright of their templates, totally absurd IMO, like if FIFA would keep the measurements of the ball or the goal a secret. Because of all the hush-hush we can only speculate.
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This is a sticky topic.
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So some interest, is good
If we are to get anywhere useful with this, is there anybody else here who has played to and understands the current pro snooker template? I hear a lot of waffle but nothing concrete. In fact, whoever you are, if you do play on a table do you know to which standard you are playing? Taking a single measurement is futile unless there is a known framework or shape that can be taken as a given, on most tables there is no given.Last edited by moglet; 12 February 2008, 12:44 AM.
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Originally Posted by missneworleans View PostWasn't pockets in old times smaller???
The "old times" billiards pocket was, correct me if I'm wrong, bigger than the current snooker pro template. Certainly the older template is tighter than any normal club pocket and it was not undercut which makes the pocket smaller, as explained in an earlier post.
OK, in answer to the cloth thing, it does make a small difference but only on newly covered tables but not as much as you'd think. The cushion cloth was changed for another reason and, incidentally, does not work.Last edited by moglet; 11 February 2008, 10:24 PM.
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Originally Posted by moglet View PostThese might help:
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i could do with some help also as my table pockets seem really tight for beginner like me,and wondered if they could be made bigger ? and a rough cost to get someone out to take a look and correct if need be? i live in the Carlisle area if this helps or point me in the right direction of a fitter that would come here to take a look ,i feel thta in my local club there a bit more generous and if i can alter them would make my enjoyment of the game loads better as some shots seem as if there going in then just rattle out or wipe it feet b4 going in the only measurement i made was in the corner pocket and the nearest point of the cushion which was 3 and a quater inch
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Buduk,
If yours is a private table and not one acquired as tournament standard it is not likely to be too tight, unless I know exactly what you are measuring and where little can be made of the "real" size of your pockets. Are you referring to both corner and middles?
"Standard" amateur pockets are well known and well documented, however understanding the variations is much more difficult.
Any competent fitter can make your pockets comfortable for you, they will not need to be re-rubbered to make them bigger, just recovered (perhaps, if you are lucky £150) but you do need to know what to ask for, and that's the difficult bit.
So far as the corners are concerned, this might help to identify your pocket standard, I need at least the "A" measurement:
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...1&d=1204245348Last edited by moglet; 11 August 2009, 09:03 PM.
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Buduk, even allowing for any possible small inaccuracies, your corner pockets are very tight. You did well to take the measurements. We haven't established where the slate drop is, but your corner pocket jaws are slightly tighter than the professional snooker template. You are right to want them made a little easier.
One further task for you to do, to measure the slate drop. This is probably easier than taking geometrical measurements but it will also confirm the "A" measurement you took.
The attachment shows an arrangement of four standard 2 1/16" balls in the pocket opening. All balls should be touching and the two nearest the cushion should touch the cushion. (I assume your pockets are not undercut?). The two balls that are a set for the corner pocket should also be a set for the opposite middle pocket. If you look where the two outer balls actually touch the cushion, on a match pocket the points where the balls touch the cushion are close to being coincident with the start of the jaw (that is the "A" measurement is about 5.00" or 5.25" {127 or 133mm}). That confirmed and the two balls touching the cushion are not within the geometry of the pocket, if you slip a British coin under the ball nearest the pocket (golf ball marking style) so it just touches the underside of the ball's curvature, what value coin does not cover or overhang the start of the slate drop?
Ignore the 3.25" measurement for the moment.Last edited by moglet; 11 August 2009, 09:03 PM.
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i havent a clue about the cushions etc i bought the table from a club that has had it for as long as the members can remember ,i rang someone who used to mentain it in the past and said the cushions or something had been replaced so it wouldn't be a big job but not sure what they had replaced
all they told me was it cost 1200 quid to do ?
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Nobody has mentioned, (at least I don`t think they have) the role that the cut of the slate plays in the size of the pocket. Club tables have the edge more `rounded` over whereas tournament tables have a vertical fall with very little round. The result of this is that the ball has to travel further into the pocket opening before it will fall. The cut of the rubbers on club tables is undercut which `opens` the pocket. I have a set of the new IBSF templates.
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