hey moglet,, could u send me the drawings of the pocket?
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Official Pocket Size
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A newbie question: are the pocket dimensions different for 10' vs 12' tables? I wouldn't think so but this looks like the group to ask.Robert
The Answer to the Ultimate Question about Life, the Universe, and Everything is ....147, of course
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Like Snookerpoolman (who is a pro table fitter and fine chap to boot) says on http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...ad.php?t=23078 , I think the norm for 10ft is the same as 12ft with regards to pocket openings. But you will see by this thread that this varies greatly within full size tables from "WSA Tournament cut" through to "make everyone feel like a pro pockets like buckets cut". I changed mine from the latter to (closer) to the former, and its definately more rewarding even tho I miss a few...ok...loads.http://frameball.com:snooker:
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Thank you. I am planning on purchasing a 10' table later this spring. I unfortunately cannot fit a 12' into the room without cramping the shots. When I decide on a builder, I will want to be sure they are using the correct template.Robert
The Answer to the Ultimate Question about Life, the Universe, and Everything is ....147, of course
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Yep, sorry if that sounded confusing. I understand that its a 10footer.. for which fullsize pockets and fullsize balls are the standard...all I meant is that there are a lot of variations for fullsize pockets, so you probably want the template based on how tough or easy you want the table to play.http://frameball.com:snooker:
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Moglet and Terry both have template drawings which aren't on here, but if you ask maybe they will send to you. nideKer has posted templates here which I think also show Moglets in a different colour. When I did my pockets, I used those by nideKer but the problem is they are not to scale, so I also measured a local club table that I liked and based my own template on both. This is just my opinion and findings...a tough corner pocket (drop width..."B" on nideKer's original attachment) is between around 80-83mm, and a tough middle around 90-95mm. For the cushion curve start on corners, add around 20mm on each side. So the width between cushions at where the curve begins is around 120mm ("A" on nideKer's original attachment) For middle it is around double the pocket width, so 180-190mm. Most important is the angle of the curve..if you want it to be a tough opening think if it as the angle of a tennis ball (if easy it would be more like an LP). I used a compass, and connected point A to point B on both sides using the smallest radius possible. Hope this helps..I am happy with the results.http://frameball.com:snooker:
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Good information. Thanks. I'm new on the forum so when you say Terry, do you mean Terry Davidson (he responded to one of my posts earlier)?Robert
The Answer to the Ultimate Question about Life, the Universe, and Everything is ....147, of course
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Yep. Terry is da man. Maybe you should pop over and see him...you guys are next door righthttp://frameball.com:snooker:
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I`ve attach a *.DWG file. (You can edit & print with nanocad 2.0 - it`s a freeware)
By red lines I`ve show template by Moglet`s drawings. by white lines I`ve show a template sketched from the table from my local club.Last edited by nideKer; 25 August 2010, 11:19 AM.
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