Originally Posted by jorock63
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Official Pocket Size
Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
-
Wikaka sell them but they are expensive.
I recommend getting the designs from here (Many poster like Moglet, ninekder and Terry are friendly and helpful) then cutting out the curve you want for the pocket (upto where the curve is parallel to the cushion) from cardboard or thick paper. You only need to do two. One for the corners and one for the middles. You can flip them over for the opposing cushion. I did this and my pockets are spot on. Any decent fitter should be able to replicate your cardboard templates to the cushions. Its a bit Blue Peter but it works!http://frameball.com:snooker:
Comment
-
You cannot purchase the WPBSA templates as they don't sell them and only their table fitters get a set.
You can purchase the IBSF templates for about (I think) $400US and they do come from Wiraka but you must order via the IBSF. I have a set here as I'm a referee and sometimes have to check a table's pockets.
For my own table I used Moglet's drawings of the WPBSA templates which he got about 5 years ago I think and they are slightly larger than the IBSF ones.
There are many ways to make a pocket take a ball easier other than just the pocket opening. It also depends how far the fall of the slate comes out into the table and if the flat of the cushion has been rounded off at the pocket opening or even cut away on the bottom as a lot of tables had been done in Canada in the old days.
See if you can get a DVD of a pro snooker match and then stop it when they have a good view of the pockets and take a good look. That along with the drawings supplied here should give you a good idea of what to look for.
If you live near the border with Ontario you could always come to my facility and have a look at my templates and the pockets on my table to get a good idea.
TerryTerry Davidson
IBSF Master Coach & Examiner
Comment
-
Template Files
Originally Posted by nideKer View PostI`ve attach a *.DWG file. (You can edit & print with nanocad 2.0 - it`s a freeware)
By red lines I`ve show template by Moglet`s drawings. by white lines I`ve show a template sketched from the table from my local club.
Many thanks
DeanHUp the TSF! :snooker:
Comment
-
Because the WPBSA didn't want anyone finding out their templates are easier than the official amateur ones of course. The drop of the slate comes out into the table another 1/4" or so and their corner pocket openings are about 1/8" larger but the really big difference is in the middle pockets, which are quite a bit easier than the IBSF amateur templates (which to my mind are way too tight).
I wonder how many century breaks from the pros have been helped by those easier middle bags since almost every century I've ever seen includes quite a few pot to the middle bags.
However, I have noticed these new Star tables look to be a bit tighter than the old BCE/Riley tables they used to use.
It also helps them as they use the #10 cloth and it's always new, so the balls will slide in easier than on your normal amateur table.
TerryTerry Davidson
IBSF Master Coach & Examiner
Comment
-
Originally Posted by Terry Davidson View PostBecause the WPBSA didn't want anyone finding out their templates are easier than the official amateur ones of course.Terry
Silly me... I would have thought that
A LEVEL PLAYING TABLE
would be in everyone's best interest!
=o(
Noel
Comment
-
Originally Posted by DeanH View PostPlease can you send these as scaled drawings but as PDF please, the DWG veiwers I have will not open the file and I cannot install NanoCAD.
Many thanks
DeanH
My friend and I have a public web-site
http://sites.google.com/site/poolbuilding/snuker_ip
We are post there all information which could find in internet. You always can use this information! (You can use on-line translater for reading description)
(But, I didn`t change the template drawing there yet...)
Regards! :snooker:
Comment
-
As I`m promised I have uploaded a pdf with templates.
pdf - http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...7&d=1282735166
dwg - http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...9&d=1267456358
Regards. :snooker:
Comment
-
We have two tables made by IBSF amateur templates. Like them 2-4 weeks,after that start to be too hard to play because cloth getting bad in jaws. For aiming practise they are super but brakebuilding practise hard. One ex-pro did not wanted to play on those tables ,they are not fair.
Comment
-
Originally Posted by Terry Davidson View PostBecause the WPBSA didn't want anyone finding out their templates are easier than the official amateur ones of course. The drop of the slate comes out into the table another 1/4" or so and their corner pocket openings are about 1/8" larger but the really big difference is in the middle pockets, which are quite a bit easier than the IBSF amateur templates (which to my mind are way too tight).
I wonder how many century breaks from the pros have been helped by those easier middle bags since almost every century I've ever seen includes quite a few pot to the middle bags.
However, I have noticed these new Star tables look to be a bit tighter than the old BCE/Riley tables they used to use.
It also helps them as they use the #10 cloth and it's always new, so the balls will slide in easier than on your normal amateur table.
Terry
Comment
-
can anyone take few pictures of the standard pockets on a full size table? both corner/side pockets. it will be great to have 1 or 2 balls to show the size of pocket. the reason i'm asking is that our pool hall just received a full size STAR table, but the corner pockets are so tight, it's only about 3". so, really appreciate someone's help
Comment
-
Originally Posted by jayhoming View Postcan anyone take few pictures of the standard pockets on a full size table? both corner/side pockets. it will be great to have 1 or 2 balls to show the size of pocket. the reason i'm asking is that our pool hall just received a full size STAR table, but the corner pockets are so tight, it's only about 3". so, really appreciate someone's help
Comment
Comment