Linseed Oil Or Varnish ?

[nzsnookerfan]

Hi Everyone, i have recently got a new cue and had to have some work done on the shaft, it came back with no protection on the shaft, so what is the best, a few layers of linseed oil, or a few light coats of varnish, or perhaps a combination of both. ?

[keith auld]

Hi - over the years I've used various applications to finish cues including linseed oil (which I'm not that fond of)- I currently use a form of acrylic spray sealant - this is something that the manufacturers produce for the high class furniture industry - it gives a perfect seal, brings out all the highlights on the cue, repels water and dirt buildup and never gets sticky - so your cue glides through unhindered every time - after 30 years of cuemaking this is the finest finish I've ever come across and has the benefit of being able to take all weather conditions (no need for gloves in sticky humid conditions). I've been contacted by a number of cuemakers asking for samples of this sealant however because of it's highly carcinogenic properties it can only be used in professional spray booths with extractors and filters, so I've been unable to help them in this regard. I hope this helps with the debate that I'm sure will get quite interesting as the other cuemakers view their preferences
Regards - Keith

[cueman]

So in other words Keith he can't use that so what should he use instead?!!!

IMO I'd go for Linseed oil, it does for most people and is a sealent in the same way although it can be a little bit sticky for a while. I'd avoid varnish at all costs. Danish oil is another alternative, similar to linseed but without the stickiness.

[keith auld]

yes - he can't use the application I use - the only reason I put that forward was to illustrate that their are better alternatives to using oils however you're quite right that for the general public both of those oils are good alternatives - be careful with the danish oil rag that you use as it can spotaneously combust if left in warm conditions

[RonnieJunior]

..I currently use a form of acrylic spray sealant..

I'd assume then Keith that sanding

the surface of a cue sealed like this

would be a no-no since the particles

would be pretty dangerous

[keith auld]

no - sanding after would be ok - the carcinogens are released when the sealer is in liquid form - these are really the cocktail of driers and other chemicals that evaporate when applying this sealer so it changes state when dry and this is usually about 2 minutes after application - it'd be far better not to sand it but if that is your preference then the active indredients will have already sunk into the cue so the protection would still be there - as I said earlier I found that once spayed with just 2 coats and then cut back with a cutting paste, the finish is the best I've ever come across for a cue

[snookaman]

Hi Everyone, i have recently got a new cue and had to have some work done on the shaft, it came back with no protection on the shaft, so what is the best, a few layers of linseed oil, or a few light coats of varnish, or perhaps a combination of both. ?

I have a similar problem as I will have to resize my cue butt. I wonder if 4 coating of tung oil will work?

PS: My friend's just told me that tung oil is only ok for cue butt, not for the shaft! It will harden the wood, so your ash/maple shaft will be very much stiffer. That means more deflection and inaccuracy!

[keith auld]

Tung oil is very good - you can also get a polymerised tung oil which has a consistancy like syrup (treacle for those of you in the USA) - but tends to dry very quickly - a good method with tung oil is to dilute 2:1 ratio with turpentine

[snookaman]

Tung oil is very good - you can also get a polymerised tung oil which has a consistancy like syrup (treacle for those of you in the USA) - but tends to dry very quickly - a good method with tung oil is to dilute 2:1 ratio with turpentine

Hi Keith,

My friend just told me that tung oil is only ok for the cue butt. As it will change the property of the wood to make it harder, it is not good for the shaft. Is waterborne Ultra-Seal Shellac a better alternative for the shaft?

[keith auld]

It depends on what sort of finish you're looking for - if you have a Canadian Maple shafted cue you can use lacquers more easily because of the lack of any defined grain pattern, but then you come back to the problem of stickiness. Whatever you use in the areas of lacquers, shellacs, or even polymer or polyurethane sealants, I would suggest allowing 2-3 days to dry hard, then use a 1500 wet and dry paper and then a good cutting paste

[snookaman]

Thank you, Keith.

Finishing wood is a very specialized job indeed.

[nzsnookerfan]

Hi Keith, thanks for all the info on different things, i have sort of got something sorted now with a polishing wax from craftsman cues, it does it ok, but i still need a name of a good non sticky seal. can ya help me please.
Lindsay

[keith auld]

Hi Lindsay - I don't know what you have available in NZ with regard to sealants etc - the polishing wax may prove a bit sticky in the middle of your summer in an unairconditioned snooker hall or pub - a standby would be to use some lanoline baby powder on the shaft of the cue - but the chances are that you don't have the facilities for spraying an industrial sealant - see if you can contact a small furniture manufacturer in your neighbourhood and if they have a spray booth ask them if they could spray your cue with an industial bar lacquer - this isn't what I use but it would do you - after you've had it done leave it for at least a week and contact me again by e-mail (you'll find it on my website at www.cuemaker.co.uk) and I'll talk you through a step by step finishing process which should prevent any stickiness from returning

[Wity]

Am I just lucky then as I never have sweaty palms and find a cue sealed with liniseed oil with or without beeswax applied later and even acrylic lacquer although I have only ever applied it to a painted butt never make my cues sticky?

[keith auld]

I know many players who would give just about anything not to have sweaty hands - I seen some come of the match tables and their cues are literally soaking - it used to be a particular problem when my son had to do his pro qualifying at the Norbreck Castle Hotel in Blackpool in the summer when the WPBSA used to use that as a venue for all the qualifying tournaments. So consider yourself lucky Wity!!!!!!!!!!!