Tips for tips

[dpdan]

Hiya, can anyone tell me the best shape for a tip. I have seen all different shapes and tried what seems like endless possibilities.
I am never completely happy with my screw back however, my swerve has been spot on.
Cheers, Dan

[platt]

They say the dome shape is the correct shape, but i've seen a player with flat tip and he maintained that there was less chance of a miscue with the flat tip ? as he was a uni- student in phyisc or something who was i to go and have words with him, (this guy knocked in tons for fun) so i say try everything till you find out what suits you.

[bongo]

Tips are important but it is not the whole reason for the way your game is.

The best shape tip is a dome becuase the ball is round and so should the tip.

Next text from: http://www.snookergames.co.uk/tuition4.html

In order to control the cue-ball a properly shaped tip must be used. It allows the cue-ball to be struck far more accurately.

Consider Diagram 1.

The cues on the left have square flattened tips, while the cues on the right have tips which have been shaped into a dome.

Notice how the lefthand cue moves across the ball, but only contacts the centre; and how the righthand cue is able to strike the cue-ball at any point within the same range.

These striking positions give experienced players far more control, and are used to great effect in both the 'stun' and long distance power shots.

The cues at the top of the diagram again illustrate why the flattened tip should not be used. The domed tip of the righthand cue allows more of the surface area to contact the ball; but as the lefthand cue moves away from the centre, only the edge of the tip can make contact, making a miss-cue far more likely.

--------------------

That is a perfect reason for a domed tip!

See the link for the picture.

I hope this helps you.

bongo

[davidhawkes]

Yes, the shape of the tip should be domed.

But the dome must be the inverse as the cueball.

In a coaching video with Terry Griffiths (the 1979 World Champion), after filing a new tip, he took the white and knocked the edges of the tip several times. This is the same as knocking it around the table for a while. If you want to do this, please use an old white, NOT your best match balls!

Also, the way you chalk your tip will affect the shape as well.

Playing with screw requires a nicely shaped tip, as well as a smooth cue action with good timing.

[bongo]

Yes, the shape of the tip should be domed.

But the dome must be the inverse as the cueball.

In a coaching video with Terry Griffiths (the 1979 World Champion), after filing a new tip, he took the white and knocked the edges of the tip several times. This is the same as knocking it around the table for a while. If you want to do this, please use an old white, NOT your best match balls!

Also, the way you chalk your tip will affect the shape as well.

Playing with screw requires a nicely shaped tip, as well as a smooth cue action with good timing.

Very good post there David. I agree totally. Dont use the club balls to tap the white on the tip becuase it makes marks in it and the club owner wont be too happy! It is to save time, hitting the white on top of the tip is the same as 5 shots a second!

Chalk does wear down the tip, so dont over-chalk. Over-chalking can lead to a compressed hard layer of chalk that becomes shiney and smooth (needs to be grippy) and can cause miss cues, so can a lack of chalk. Give the chalk a good covering of the tip and put a little chalk on before each shot. Make sure the whole tip (and sides) are covered but dont keep chalking (like 6 strikes across the tip) or you will wear the tip slightly and produce the compressed layer. The chalk will last for ever then! From a coaching point of view, dont walk 'n chalk, stand behind the shot then chalk! This could be the art of chalking!

bongo

[kevy62]

Very good post there David. I agree totally. Dont use the club balls to tap the white on the tip becuase it makes marks in it and the club owner wont be too happy! It is to save time, hitting the white on top of the tip is the same as 5 shots a second!

Chalk does wear down the tip, so dont over-chalk. Over-chalking can lead to a compressed hard layer of chalk that becomes shiney and smooth (needs to be grippy) and can cause miss cues, so can a lack of chalk. Give the chalk a good covering of the tip and put a little chalk on before each shot. Make sure the whole tip (and sides) are covered but dont keep chalking (like 6 strikes across the tip) or you will wear the tip slightly and produce the compressed layer. The chalk will last for ever then! From a coaching point of view, dont walk 'n chalk, stand behind the shot then chalk! This could be the art of chalking!

bongo

Great "tip" excuse the pun!

[davidhawkes]

To get rid of any compressed chalk, once a week (normally before a league match and before cleaning my cue) I file the tip slightly.

This breaks up any stubborn chalk, and keeps the tip in a rough texture - important for it to grip the cueball.

[dpdan]

Thanks to everyone who posted a reply to me.
I thought 'DOMED' would be the way to go. I've seen people with what looks like a 'Mushroom' shaped tip. I assume this is done with a tip that is bigger than the ferrule and then domed.

[ADR147]

read my tip guide mate.

[bongo]

To get rid of any compressed chalk, once a week (normally before a league match and before cleaning my cue) I file the tip slightly.

This breaks up any stubborn chalk, and keeps the tip in a rough texture - important for it to grip the cueball.

You do not want filling of the tip when you don't need to, just press on it with a sandpaper/file (whatever you use) to get rid of compressed chalk.

This sounds like a knowledge battle against davidhawkes! Sorry!

[kevy62]

Thanks to everyone who posted a reply to me.
I thought 'DOMED' would be the way to go. I've seen people with what looks like a 'Mushroom' shaped tip. I assume this is done with a tip that is bigger than the ferrule and then domed.

hi, this can be done deliberately, although it used to be just what would have happened if you diddn't maintain your tip shape over time anyway.

many players "make" this happen because the ferrule has lost size over time, filing & shaping tips with sandpaper or files will reduce the diametre of the ferrule over time, so by letting the tip mushroom they can regain the tip width, without the need to replace the ferrule.

one way is to fit a hard tip about 1mm larger than the ferrule and
cut-outwards as required. (instant mushroom)
the other way is to fit a tip in the correct size/manner & play it in hard, until it mushrooms, then chalk softly (as chalking action can alter the tip shape)

On a personal note i prefer a slight dome shape, fitted tight to the edge of the ferrule, with no mushrooming effect ,
(i find it easier to play from off the cushion)
i have tried different tip shapes & most don't do a thing, new tips come domed for a reason,they work better that way!

The only word of warning i would offer is, don't let the tip ruin your game, it could be very easy to play a bad shot & instantly blame the tip & mess with your head.

[totlxtc]

I used to use a flatter domed tip but since switching to laminated tips i use a dome shape like this. Wish i did now from the start. Works for me

[DandyA]

I'vw just bought a glass nail file from Marks and Spencer ... it was a silly price £9.50 but at least it was cheaper than Boots who wamted £13 for the same thing ...

But it doesn't half do the job ... whether you want to re-shape your tip or just rough it up a little, it is absolutely fabulous at both ...

I recommend it ...

[poolqjunkie]

Actually, you can just shape the tip, and then leave it. Your game, and your chalking habit, will give you the shape of tip that works for you.

As you keep playing with the tip, it will be compressed, and shaped by the compression. Even if you had it originally in whatever shape, it will change anyway.

Dont think too much about the shape of the tip having to be doom shape. It is just a theory.

[poolqjunkie]

TOTLXTC, what is the black thing there on the bottom of your tip?
Looks like you have quite a few scratches on your ferrule, looks to be from the file when shaping the tip...