Project Snooker Shed!

[Danger Steve]

OK I'm looking for a little help on cushions!

I may have mentioned replacing my softwood rubber rebated lining blocks with custom hardwood versions, so I've been taking measurements tonight from one of the cushions I intentionally haven't stripped down yet for this very reason. However! I noticed something weird on the rubber support fillet strip, it seems to be slightly tapered..... take a look at the pic. I've tried to highlight the angle with a red line...



I checked the ones removed from the other cushions and they all the same. I'm not sure if they are made/sold like this originally or whether a fitter has planned this tapper into the wood for a reason? Assuming the Northern Rubber doesn't have a tapered bottom edge I can only think maybe by having a pointed/sharper edge to the fillet it digs into the rubber and stops it sliding and breaking free if someone sits on the cushion?

[Danger Steve]

Something else I wanted to check.. Is this correct to have a tilt on the cushion? I assume its because the rubber and lining block is set down a mm or so to allow for the cloth and retaining slip? Or should it be completely flat?

[DeanH]

I think that is right, a slight drop to the playing area; I hope one of our resident table fitters will pop on soon for you
some only watch the "Tables" sub-forum, so maybe a post there with a link to catch their attention?

[Danger Steve]

Where’s GL when you need him!

[Danger Steve]

So... I've spoken with a couple of companies who supply tables and fit with regards my cushion questions and to be honest neither had the same answer, I'm not even sure they understood the question!

I'm going to conclude the point on the rubber support fillet is there to help 'bite' into the rubber and keep it from dislodging, therefore it probably isn't needed. However! If Riley have tweaked this and it has been done in the factory then I'm going to include this feature in my hardwood version.

As for the slope on the cushion, when I peeled the cloth back further down the cushion to expose the block and rubber they do actually seem paralell with cushion. I think the slope is created by the retaining slip that holds the cushion cloth in place being just a fraction higher than the rubber.

Right.. enough nonesense! back to sanding the woodwork! Grain fill, stain and varnish arriving on Mondy so need to be ready to go>

[Shockerz]

I’ll probably have to install a booster pump to the central heating close to where I will be taking the feeds from the house. It’s roughly 10m to the shed so I think it would be asking a bit much of the current pump to take it that far. I’ll also use 15mm pipe to give it a good chance!

Seems a long way for 15mm pipe to me mate on the end of the heating system. Obviously you'll need to know you have additional capacity in your boiler. Personally I'd probably run the majority in 22 depending on what you are tapping into and then you've still got the insulate it somehow.

I've seen people put log burners, electric heating etc into rooms and even a couple of gas wall heaters like the Baxi Brazillia's but they'd have to be second hand due to the price.

I'd probably look at wall heaters but I'd be interested to see what you settle on and how successful it is mate.

[Danger Steve]

Yeah I still haven’t made a decision on the heating, I think electric is out because of the cost to run. Central heating I thought would be good because it would just come on with the house even if I wasn't in the shed, so it would keep it from getting really cold. Gas! Now there’s a thought? Are you a heating engineer by any chance? Should have mentioned it’s a combi-boiler!... I really need to go into the loft and find the make so I can check it’s capacity. The pipes I was thinking of connecting to are 15mm? I was going to run the pipes and armoured cable inside some soilpipe down the side of the fence and I was going to insulate the pipes to stop them freezing.

Just had a look at the Baxi gas heaters. I wonder how they compare in terms of running costs. A single gas feed to the shed would be very easy to route so that’s not a problem.

cheers!

[Shockerz]

Yeah I still haven’t made a decision on the heating, I think electric is out because of the cost to run. Central heating I thought would be good because it would just come on with the house even if I wasn't in the shed, so it would keep it from getting really cold. Gas! Now there’s a thought? Are you a heating engineer by any chance? Should have mentioned it’s a combi-boiler!... I really need to go into the loft and find the make so I can check it’s capacity. The pipes I was thinking of connecting to are 15mm? I was going to run the pipes and armoured cable inside some soilpipe down the side of the fence and I was going to insulate the pipes to stop them freezing.

Just had a look at the Baxi gas heaters. I wonder how they compare in terms of running costs. A single gas feed to the shed would be very easy to route so that’s not a problem.

cheers!

Yes mate, I've been in the heating trade for around 35 years although I do very little with it nowadays apart from consulting (occasionally).

If it's a combi then it should have a larger capacity as it normally has to cope with domestic water demand. Maybe get a heating engineer round just to run his/her eyes over it quickly as they'll be able to see straight away how far away it is, what the run is like and how far away the pump is.

Without being there I would have thought wall heaters would be more suitable. A Baxi 8000 is about 12 pence an hour I'm told on high (2.26kw Output) and 6 pence an hour on low (0.8kw).

It would depend on the size of the room and what the wall and floor construction is as to how many you would need, My guess would be 2 and they are around ?300 each.

You could also go for an air conditioning unit / heater that does both but you'd have to see what size is need and if it has a reasonable running cost.

I know some just use greenhouse heaters which have a low output and cheap to run but leave them on all the time to keep the cloth at the right temperature when not heating the room.

Don't think I'd try and run water pipes as you may have a flow problem, the whole system would need to be re balanced so it doesn't rob it from the house (or the snooker room). Even running soil pipe isn't cheap and you also have the cost of a pipe and frost stat to stop it freezing in winter, possible an additional zone valve and timer so you can control when it is heated at different times to the house and then if the flow isn't great you will want a secondary pump which also need some sort of control.

Wall heaters or an electric air conditioner / heater sounds favourite to me and a lot easier.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valor-Bax...4AAOSwQOpd73w5

[Danger Steve]

Yes mate, I've been in the heating trade for around 35 years although I do very little with it nowadays apart from consulting (occasionally).

If it's a combi then it should have a larger capacity as it normally has to cope with domestic water demand. Maybe get a heating engineer round just to run his/her eyes over it quickly as they'll be able to see straight away how far away it is, what the run is like and how far away the pump is.

Without being there I would have thought wall heaters would be more suitable. A Baxi 8000 is about 12 pence an hour I'm told on high (2.26kw Output) and 6 pence an hour on low (0.8kw).

It would depend on the size of the room and what the wall and floor construction is as to how many you would need, My guess would be 2 and they are around ?300 each.

You could also go for an air conditioning unit / heater that does both but you'd have to see what size is need and if it has a reasonable running cost.

I know some just use greenhouse heaters which have a low output and cheap to run but leave them on all the time to keep the cloth at the right temperature when not heating the room.

Don't think I'd try and run water pipes as you may have a flow problem, the whole system would need to be re balanced so it doesn't rob it from the house (or the snooker room). Even running soil pipe isn't cheap and you also have the cost of a pipe and frost stat to stop it freezing in winter, possible an additional zone valve and timer so you can control when it is heated at different times to the house and then if the flow isn't great you will want a secondary pump which also need some sort of control.

Wall heaters or an electric air conditioner / heater sounds favourite to me and a lot easier.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Valor-Bax...4AAOSwQOpd73w5

Yes your absolutely right, just been chatting with the old man and going over the pros and cons of central heating, electric heating and your Gas heater idea.

It makes more sense to have a gas heater rather than over work the boiler, especially when the room isn’t in use, and it’s a hell of a lot less work and cost, I could maybe even use bottled gas? So I’m definitely going to look further at those... I’ve done a few calculations and reckon the space needs around 7000 BTU’s or 2kw so I could maybe get away with just one large heater for now or two smaller one’s which would heat the room quicker.

I always planned on having under table tube heaters on a timer/thermostat setup of some kind to leave on over night to prevent the slate and cushions from getting too cold or just to switch on an hour or so before play to help the table speed. I did also think maybe a couple of Kingsize duvets thrown over the table in the winter would help keep it from getting too cold if I didn’t want the under table heaters on?

Thanks for the help and advise!

[John Flaf]

Log Burner ? pretty cheap to run and they can kick out 4KW, only prob is stacking and cleaning, don't ask how I know

[trying]

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to be using electric foil underfloor heating in mine. I also thought about having a wood burner as I love the one in the house but for controllable consistent temperature and the table ready to play any time the underfloor heating with thermostat/time controller is much better.

[Danger Steve]

Yeah, a log burner I think would actually be too hot and just an extra faff..

I think I’m going with a small portable 4.5kw gas heater which I can turn down if it gets too hot. Plus I can move it around and even move it across to the other shed where I’ll eventually have a little workshop and art studio.

I nearly have the main framework stained and varnished so I’ll get some photo updates of those uploaded next week. I’ve also ordered the LED table lighting, muntin slate support brackets and the carpet tile flooring! So hopefully I can get the flooring and lighting sorted over Xmas and then get the table frame built up and the slates on.

[Danger Steve]

I'm pretty sure that I'm going to be using electric foil underfloor heating in mine. I also thought about having a wood burner as I love the one in the house but for controllable consistent temperature and the table ready to play any time the underfloor heating with thermostat/time controller is much better.

Sounds expensive to run???

[trying]

Sounds expensive to run???

Not these days with more efficient foils. Though like any heating, the key is having the structure well insulated.

[Shockerz]

Yeah, a log burner I think would actually be too hot and just an extra faff..

I think I’m going with a small portable 4.5kw gas heater which I can turn down if it gets too hot. Plus I can move it around and even move it across to the other shed where I’ll eventually have a little workshop and art studio.

I nearly have the main framework stained and varnished so I’ll get some photo updates of those uploaded next week. I’ve also ordered the LED table lighting, muntin slate support brackets and the carpet tile flooring! So hopefully I can get the flooring and lighting sorted over Xmas and then get the table frame built up and the slates on.

If you are going to use a portable calor/lpg heater make sure you read the ventilation requirements as calor uses a lot of oxygen compared to natural gas.