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Balance of Cue: Need Advice

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  • Balance of Cue: Need Advice

    I am about to order a new cue and would like to make the following things clear beforehand...

    1. Balance of Cue
    Most of the standard cues (57") were balanced at 16"-18" away from the butt end.
    In theory (if there's any), what should be the optimum position of the balance point?
    How would a "backward (closer to butt end) balanced cue" differ from a "forward (further away from butt end) balanced cue" (e.g. feel? ease of playing with pace? ease of playing with side? whatever, you name it~)?

    2. Length of Splice (Plain ebony)
    Some cue makers would add a small piece of metal (or simply the joint for 3/4 cues) in order to artificially adjust the weight and balance the cue to a desired point.
    However, I not a fan of this method as I think (and from my experiences) the more metal pieces there are in the cue, the more chance of encountering problems (strange noise) due to natural expansion and contraction of timber.
    I am wondering, for 1 piece cues in particular, is it possible to adjust the weight and balance of the cue by simply varying the length of the splices (as ebony generally has a much higher density than the shaft)?

    3. Length of Shaft
    As far as I understood from what mentioned in Tony Glover's website:
    In general, the longer the splices, the stiffer the cue will be?
    Or in other words, the shorter the shaft, the stiffer the cue will be?
    (Assume same timber density and identical tapering.)
    Is that correct/true?

  • #2
    1) The weight of the cue is probably the aspect most affected if changed. If a cue is forward balanced, it generally feels nicer because you can cue with a more relaxed grip and it will stay on your bridge better. While if you have a back heavy cue, the front end might feel light, like it wont stay on your bridge. you end up pushing the front of the cue down a bit when cueing if your not use to it. also for shots like top spin, you can miscue more, since most of the weight is in your hand, and not between your bridge and your grip to hold it down. Also, if you have it TOO forward weighted, the cue might feel heavy, and you might not get as good a cueing action. thats why its important for cue makers to balance a cue correctly. anything between 16 and 18 inches for a standard size cue is generally good feeling. It also helps to have a forward balanced cue for shots on the cushion, when you need to move your hand up the shaft so that the cue shortens. if you hav a back heavy cue, and your holding it ON the balance point or even in front of it, the cue will have a LOT of trouble staying on the bridge.

    2) I wouldnt worry too much about problems with the joint, if you are going with a reputable maker. Most makers make the same size splicings most of the time, unless specified otherwise, and they alter the weights slightly by changing the taper of the wood closer to the splices (not the bridge) and picking woods of certain density but same or certain stiffness (there IS a difference). Same with woods chosen in the butt. not all Jet Black ebony is the same denseness. Ive seen cues made entirely of ash that play well, and are very well balance, as well as dense. as Long as they are a reputable cue maker, you shouldnt have ANY problems, and if you do, they WILL sort it out.

    3) well yes, the cue is going to be stiffer if you make 2 identical cues, (same stiffness and everythng) and then cut an inch off the top of one. the stiffness generally can be the same, if the taper is the same from the tip down to where the splices is, and not the other way around. like you could have 2 cues, with identical shaft tapering, but a shorter butt for one; they would have the same amount of stiffness because the ash properties and playability are similar where it counts. having a shorter or longer, or thicker butt is not going to affect the stiffness of the shaft, so you can have longer cues that arent too whippy. Having said that, changing the butt will have an effect on the cue's balance. It all comes down to a cuemaker, and their ability to choose the right wood, to make a cue how you want it to be. again, reputable makers will do a good job regardless. have faith in them.

    Comment


    • #3
      karkit1028,

      I also recommending a forward balance cue. The length of the main butt is depend on the length of your cue, but for the standard spec (57 or 58 inches cue), the butt is at best around 22" (+/-).

      All you need to know is your own specs (weight/length/butt diameter). If you got them right, leave the rest to the cuemaker. They know what best. I will not bother where is the joint, as long it is 3/4 cue (for a jointed cue).

      Cheers.
      My cueing sucks

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