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I just order two Phenolic ferrules and tips, I'm not going to use the tips, but have perchased the ferrule to go on my TW snooker cue, as I believe they are lighter than brass, so should be good at eliminating throw.
I just order two Phenolic ferrules and tips, I'm not going to use the tips, but have perchased the ferrule to go on my TW snooker cue, as I believe they are lighter than brass, so should be good at eliminating throw.
I only know this as I was looking at a pool forum while searching for different ferrule types. I think it was an american site, like you said most ppl would'nt have a clue what they where.
Phenolic tip will give you more power, but there is a risk that it might crack when you hit the ball very hard with it repeatedly, and you need to glue it very well for it to stay.
Actually with phenolic you need to machine the wall thicker so the tenon will be thinner. If you machine your phenolic ferrule with a wall thickness like your brass ferrule, there is a risk that it might crack.
There are several types of phenolic (canvas, linen, glass epoxy...etc) I am not sure if a phenolic ferrule is necessarily lighter than a brass ferrule. But I know for sure phenolic is more brittle than brass.
i was next to an american pool table and the player was breaking off by giving the pack a good whack with a phenolic tip (maybe the glass epoxy type, it looked like a semi-transparent piece of plastic)... sounded like thunder!! my ears were practically ringing... the balls spreaded in every direction like some miniature big bang.
also noticed that phenolic materials seem to feature prominently in american pool cues... would be interesting to hear from anyone who uses phenolic ferrules or joint with their snooker cues on how it plays as compared to the common brass ones.
When life gives you lemons, don't make lemonade. Make life take the lemons back. GET MAD!!
If you want something very light there are some cheap plastic ferrule (like that you can find on house cues) that is lighter than phenolic. Phenolic and brass are very different, one being brittle and hard, while the other is ductile and soft. The hit and "feel" between the two is different.
If you have to reduce the tenon diameter to install the phenolic ferrule then when you try to put a brass back on in the future, you need to thicken the tenon again. If you do not reduce the tenon, the wall on the phenolic ferrules might be too thin, as they do tend to crack when they are thin.
From my experience, Trevor's cues do not throw the ball much at all. If you want to reduce the weight of the brass ferrule you can also just use a shorter ferrule or one with a thinner wall thickness.
Other than ferrule weight, the taper and weight of the shaft is important in determining how much the cue ball will throw.
Going back to the original poster's question, yes, it will help you to break harder...but it is harder to control. Moreover, phenolic tips do not hold chalk as well as leather, and they crack easier.
When I get the ferrules I will weigh them and compare them to the brass.
If you can Caz, as tempting as it is... leave the brass ferrule on your cue. Persevere and you will become more accustomed to how it feels. Just IMHO of course.
Too much experimenting can simply do your head in.
nylon ferals are all the rage over tend to give u heaps more screw and side but when i ordered my jp john told me a great shaft will give more then i need so y run the risk of thinning my cue down
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