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Considering having my legend "sinbin" jointed as the "novelty" of lugging around 60 inches of aluminium case is starting to wear thin. Read on here a few times though that jointing a 1 piece is a bad way to go, is it more the hit that feels different, or is it more to do with a slight shift in weight with the addition of a brass joint that people don't like?
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The cue will feel entirely different. Not necessarily worse though.
You may even prefer it.
It is the hit that feels different. That's the main change to get over. -
Been thinking about it for a while now, was also going to get the cue brought up to a 10mm ferrule but the butt would need lengthened to accommodate that as I want the length brought upto 58" as well.Originally Posted by pottr View Post
Thinking about it anyway, maybe in the next month or so.Comment
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I'm glad this topic has come up as I am seriously thinking of getting my one piece john parris special cue jointed. It's a great cue and the only reason is due to the inconvenience of having to carry round a one piece in ally case.
As a result my preference would be a centre joint but before sending it to parris cues, my worry of course is it will affect the cue negatively. Also it struck me that I can't think of one player on the tour who plays with a centre jointed cue. Does anyone know why? Why is a one piece that is then converted to a centre jointed 2pc not as popular as the 3/4 joint? Would love to know why! ThanksComment
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Dunno about that, I've had cues lengthened before and to me I didn't notice much difference, though they were already jointed. Still a consideration, not really sure about going forward with itOriginally Posted by jrc750 View Post
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Personally i can't tell any difference in feel from a one piece to a 3/4 lol, but just prefer one piece at the momentComment
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just dont do it, speaking from experience, had few done in the past. most recent a tw done by trev himself, even tho was done top notch. didnt feel the same.Comment
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If a brass joint absorbs less feel in your butt , How would a stainless steel screw feel ??? They seem to be getting more popular !!!
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Don't see much difference myself. Playing with a1 piece currently but carrying it around is annoying.
I might not be very good but I can tell the difference between a good cue and a bad one. Got an absolutely cracking machine spliced 1 piece. Considered getting it jointed by Mike with one of his half wood joints but I would have had to have it lengthened at the same time to really get on with it so I decided against it as it would have changed the balance, but that's only because its so perfect to start with.
Thinking of getting froggy joined at the minute.sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!Comment
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they say that 1/2 joint became unpopular because the player could see the joint when down on the shot - not that I ever did with my old 1/2 cue, I was concentrating on the object ballOriginally Posted by marriott View Post
Before you make your decision, have a chat with Stu Green at GBL, he has some "compact" 3/4 leather/leatherette cases, they are slightly shorter than a "standard" 3/4 case, ask him what length of shaft they fit and see if this 3/4 position would work on your cue.
I have a custom leather case from snooker warrior to fit my JP Special 3/4 and it is not that much longer than a off-the-shelf 1/2 case and much shorter than a off-the-shelf 3/4.
I dont know who does a compact ali case but there is a maker in New Zealand (I believe) that makes custom ali cases - never found any details though
There is a mention of this maker on the "pictures of case" thread sometime back.
cheersUp the TSF! :snooker:Comment
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Personally speaking if the idea of jointing a cue gives you concern , hence the query , then dont do it.Myself I have quite a few cues jointed low , including 2 x John Parris Specials jointed at 12" and 11 1/2", a Mac Chambers jointed at 10 1/2" and an un named cue jointed at 10".This leaves various shaft lengths from about 45" up to 48". It seems to me that the longer the shaft length above the joint the better the feel of the cue .A longer shaft might do more to preserve the original hit and feel of the cue , just a personal opinion , but one that works for me.Why not see if you can get a machine spliced , plain butted, cheap cue , play with it until you know its characteristics , then send it away and get it jointed low at say 10".Play with it compare and contrast , maybe cost you £60 . If you hate it you wont have ruined your MW Legend.Comment
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Everything you are thinking of doing I have just had done, I had a 1 piece green baize plain ebony, sent it to dave coutts, got it chopped half inch at tip to bring it to 9.7mm tip, got the butt re-spliced with kingwood which I needed anyway as there was a slight crack in the ebony but I got the lenght back up to the previous length with this and finally got the cue cut through the ebony splices to get a joint put in, personally I don't feel a whole lot of difference in the hit, the main difference I feel is the throw with side due to being a thicker tip.Comment
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Most of the top professionals are weilding 3/4 weapons !! I am pretty sure that any downside to the choice between chopped or un-chopped then we would have seen it by now ??? Personally I have just bought a one piece as I convinced myself that I would gain better feel !!! Although I havent given the cue fair trails yet , I really cannot say that a one piece is any better or worse than a 3/4 . I think more people should pay more attention to Butt circumference and where the flat of the cue is situated in relation to the part of the shaft you prefer to sight with ??
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Don't know if he still makes them but a bloke called Bob Aker put an acrylic joint in my 1 piece years ago,just above the splices. I find a brass joint feels a bit 'pingy' in comparison. Just an idea
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