Tips on making cues

[bigandyg]

Lots of 3/4 cues only have small splices as far as the joint. From the joint down is a solid turned piece.

[jim evans]

i use a record spindle lathe ,they are normally for 24-30 in long,mine as been adapted to take up to a 61 ins cue.

[RogiBear]

i use a record spindle lathe ,they are normally for 24-30 in long,mine as been adapted to take up to a 61 ins cue.

Is that the type with the bars as the base? In which case have you just used longer bars and possibly a centre steady?

[jim evans]

you got it mate the only downside is only about 2-3 ins of tip end goes in the headstock

[RogiBear]

you got it mate the only downside is only about 2-3 ins of tip end goes in the headstock

Sorry for all the questions. I have used lathes before etc but I'm not too clued up on their limits.

The problem you've outlined, would it be possible to use two live centre's instead and just hold the blank through tension?

As I take it you're currently having to swap ends over

[Maverick54]

Lots of 3/4 cues only have small splices as far as the joint. From the joint down is a solid turned piece.

Andy, So would you splice the shaft first, then fit the joint to both shaft and butt then do any additional splicing to the butt after so that they line up with the front splices on the shaft?

[jim evans]

yes i have to turn cue round,you do anyway no matter which lathe,

[RogiBear]

Much appreciated Jim. Thanks for your pictures and help. Have to keep an eye out for one.

[jim evans]

mine cost about £40 but had to fetch it so another 10-15 on top,ordinary scaffold tubes will do the extending

[bigandyg]

Andy, So would you splice the shaft first, then fit the joint to both shaft and butt then do any additional splicing to the butt after so that they line up with the front splices on the shaft?

I meant from the base of the cue to the joint there is no splicing only a solid turned butt in wood matching your splices. The splicing is only from the joint up towards the tip about 6 - 8 inches. Unless of course you make a one piece then joint it.

[raymo147]

There's obviously several lathes that can be used and depends how far you want to take it.
I have a colchester chipmaster single phase which I had adapted to help massively with cue work.
It has a 35mm bore which is a great start as you can fit cues thought the headstock.
Also has an automatic crossfeed which can come in handy too.
I use mine for jointing,fitting ferrules,turning mini butts,re weighting cues,plugging and more.
The lathe cost me £750 but I've spent another £1000 on it getting it adapted.
This is a heavy duty lathe which ain't easy to move.
I originally wanted a bench lathe but very hard to find a bore big enough.
Take your time in picking one there's no rush.
High end stuff is cnc lathes which could virtually splice a cue for you apart from the gluing on part.

[RogiBear]

There's obviously several lathes that can be used and depends how far you want to take it.
I have a colchester chipmaster single phase which I had adapted to help massively with cue work.
It has a 35mm bore which is a great start as you can fit cues thought the headstock.
Also has an automatic crossfeed which can come in handy too.
I use mine for jointing,fitting ferrules,turning mini butts,re weighting cues,plugging and more.
The lathe cost me £750 but I've spent another £1000 on it getting it adapted.
This is a heavy duty lathe which ain't easy to move.
I originally wanted a bench lathe but very hard to find a bore big enough.
Take your time in picking one there's no rush.
High end stuff is cnc lathes which could virtually splice a cue for you apart from the gluing on part.

Thanks for the advice. I'm not looking to get a business out it, it's just going to be a hobby making a few cues in my spare time.
I had no plans for the summer (finished uni for the year) so thought this would be fun to have a go at.

As for the lathe I'm not looking to spend a huge amount, just looking for something that would do the job well enough for now. If the opportunity arises later then I could always change it.

[Maverick54]

I meant from the base of the cue to the joint there is no splicing only a solid turned butt in wood matching your splices. The splicing is only from the joint up towards the tip about 6 - 8 inches. Unless of course you make a one piece then joint it.

Yes Andy I obviously wasn,t clear, what I meant was any fancy splicing to the butt such as venners etc. These would be added last after the joint was fitted yes?

[ADR147]

Lots of 3/4 cues only have small splices as far as the joint. From the joint down is a solid turned piece.

nearly all now are like this it's why i find them too heavy for me.

[The Doctor]

I generally plane cue to a 50p piece shape and then adjust plane to take off very fine shavings until I get it as near round as i can. Then I use a course grit sandpaper in a rounded wooden block to sand cue round. Once I'm happy with shape and diameter i go up grades of sanding until its smooth and the correct diameter.
Expect to make some mistakes but its all part of learning the craft.
Oh great first effort BTW. Keep it up.