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the tip does feel hard but for me the harder the better, gives me a better reading of the shaft..
as for the front splice no, i just chiseled it off. im gonna recycle the maple part
Getting the hardness and the grip is the balance so it'll be interesting to see how it goes as the jury's out whether to use milk or just compress Elks (but that's for another thread!).
You did well to get the splice off without any splitting mate.
i dont quite get what you mean vmax, have you some pics of the cues, what type of butt woods we talking about?, and your wanting to do a full splice like above?
Run of the mill brown butts j6, don't know the exact species of timber used. What I mean is you plane the old splice tips down to the end of the butt for the new wood to be glued on, right ?
What of the original timber remains at the original glued joint to ensure that that is not a weak spot under the new butt timber.
Run of the mill brown butts j6, don't know the exact species of timber used. What I mean is you plane the old splice tips down to the end of the butt for the new wood to be glued on, right ?
i approach it as if its just another shaft. but its all the lumps and bumps that make it tricky when it come to doing a neat job.. i take it youve never done it yet or you have and it was a bad experience?
i find most machine splices to be very stable and tightly glued so, there wouldnt be a problem unless the woods are brittle, then its about being very careful.
another thing is the re-weighting and re-tapering, thats when it starts to becomes your own and its just another shaft and you forget that there ever was other splices on there.
not easy, tougher than making a cue from scratch imo
Getting the hardness and the grip is the balance so it'll be interesting to see how it goes as the jury's out whether to use milk or just compress Elks (but that's for another thread!).
You did well to get the splice off without any splitting mate.
yeah i went halfway with the chisel then carefully pealed it of with a blade.
iv pressed a few elks before and they came out okay but the ones you sent feel like they got something more about them. will have a knock tomorrow and do a vid..
i approach it as if its just another shaft. but its all the lumps and bumps that make it tricky when it come to doing a neat job.. i take it youve never done it yet or you have and it was a bad experience?
i find most machine splices to be very stable and tightly glued so, there wouldnt be a problem unless the woods are brittle, then its about being very careful.
another thing is the re-weighting and re-tapering, thats when it starts to becomes your own and its just another shaft and you forget that there ever was other splices on there.
not easy, tougher than making a cue from scratch imo
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Yes, I've taken out all the little bumps and both are now straight, smooth and re-tapered. Thanks for allaying my concerns over the old joint as a weak spot, might re-splice them but also might just 3/4 split them,
cheers
Yes, I've taken out all the little bumps and both are now straight, smooth and re-tapered. Thanks for allaying my concerns over the old joint as a weak spot, might re-splice them but also might just 3/4 split them,
cheers
i forgot you have the cue smith lathe, yeah id cut one at the end of the machine splice and brass joint it. do put some pics up, looking forwards to seeing it when its done
yeah i went halfway with the chisel then carefully pealed it of with a blade.
iv pressed a few elks before and they came out okay but the ones you sent feel like they got something more about them. will have a knock tomorrow and do a vid..
I can make them harder but then I'd have to put a tattoo on their neck cause they'd be rock hard guvnor'.....
another thing is the re-weighting and re-tapering, thats when it starts to becomes your own and its just another shaft and you forget that there ever was other splices on there.
yeah i moved the weight right up towards the splices, great vibe now, looking forwards to getting in on the baize..
as for the tips, if you can make them as hard as possible that would be fine
yeah i moved the weight right up towards the splices, great vibe now, looking forwards to getting in on the baize..
as for the tips, if you can make them as hard as possible that would be fine
If that one grips J I'll do a harder one to try!
Did you keep the weight as a cylinder type behind the dowel or do it like you did before?
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