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  • Lp duke cue

    Hi. I would like to buy the 2016 latest version lp duke cue. It cost around usd 800. I wonder if this lp duke is good. Heard someone say it is too stiff. And good cue have to be 'alive' abit. Please comment

  • #2
    I don't think anyone can answer your question because cues are not like cars or computers, having the same model does not mean they will have the same characteristics.

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    • #3
      I can answer it. Way way overpriced. There is no snooker cue in the world today worth $800=£601 barring stupid ones with gold/silver inlays and or diamonds in the ferrule especially one made in china where the labour costs are a fraction of ours.

      As for a cues characteristics, presumably you mean playing wise I assure you there is no such thing as a great playing cue, a great hitter, a powerful cue, they are sticks of wood and if you put them on any table they are all the same they just lie there and do naff all.

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      • #4
        Originally Posted by jimmymoller View Post
        I can answer it. Way way overpriced. There is no snooker cue in the world today worth $800=£601 barring stupid ones with gold/silver inlays and or diamonds in the ferrule especially one made in china where the labour costs are a fraction of ours.

        As for a cues characteristics, presumably you mean playing wise I assure you there is no such thing as a great playing cue, a great hitter, a powerful cue, they are sticks of wood and if you put them on any table they are all the same they just lie there and do naff all.
        What a load of rubbish you speak. You do know that expensive cues are actually made different to cheap Thai cues? You do know that don't you? Or maybe you did and the meths has once more ruined your remaining memory.

        Cheap Thai cues and even some expensive ones, as well as cheap cues from the far east are made with split shafts. This cheap trick is hidden inside the cue, even one piece cues. If you think that's ok and it's not going to affect feedback or the playability of the cue, you are entirely stupid, as well being a tight git. You've obviously not read the words of Mike Wooldridge on his website, detailing why a well built cue, no expense spared is a wise choice.

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        • #5
          Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
          What a load of rubbish you speak. You do know that expensive cues are actually made different to cheap Thai cues? You do know that don't you? Or maybe you did and the meths has once more ruined your remaining memory.

          Cheap Thai cues and even some expensive ones, as well as cheap cues from the far east are made with split shafts. This cheap trick is hidden inside the cue, even one piece cues. If you think that's ok and it's not going to affect feedback or the playability of the cue, you are entirely stupid, as well being a tight git. You've obviously not read the words of Mike Wooldridge on his website, detailing why a well built cue, no expense spared is a wise choice.
          I think that your reply is rude mate - he is giving his opinion...no need to say he on meth's or entirely stupid is there now. Even tongue in cheek...not funny

          Make friends not war if you don't agree then say why without the need for the insults - keep with the banter and don't give them a reason to kick you off yet again.

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          • #6
            Actually Byron I'm finding my view on Big Splash is changing. It's pointless trying to correct him or argue he simply does not listen. I just smile when I start to read his posts and by the time I've finished I'm laughing my socks off at him.

            It's my opinion yeah but it's based on common sense. I've been round the wood yards, the exotic wood importers and I've met and talked to a number of cuemakers . It's not rocket science it's a trade and of course there are different ways to make a cue, but when you consider the material costs, the running costs of a company be it a one man band or the likes of Peradon any top quality cue can be made providing a healthy profit margin for a figure of around £400 ish in this country. A premium can be added on top of that for some really exceptionally rare exotic wood, and regional costs come into it too so maybe the absolute top price to pay is say £500. But £600 for a cue from china is crazy. The main cost of a cue is the labour as it is with many a product and the average wage in China for a skilled tradesman at £130 a week is twice what it is in Thailand at £63 p/w apparently in England that figure is over £600p/w. China works different to any other country though and there are a growing number of really good cuemakers coming along from there that with the economic and political gubbins of the country are already producing cues of the top quality for less than Thai made ones, But there again there's a price and a resellers price. Most sellers just think regardless of what it costs them the real profit to be made is by selling them a little bit under an English made cue cost.

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            • #7
              cheap Thai cues play better than most cues. Secondly MIKE WOOLRIDGES website is his opinion based on his perceptions and not fact. Thirdly There is no trick regarding the split in the shaft. If you don't understand the reasons behind it I think you better shut up. Thai cue makers aren't going to be changing this anytime to suit you. In any case If I placed a whole bunch of cues with split and no split under the splices you would not be able to guess better than 50% which is which. That is a fact.

              Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
              What a load of rubbish you speak. You do know that expensive cues are actually made different to cheap Thai cues? You do know that don't you? Or maybe you did and the meths has once more ruined your remaining memory.

              Cheap Thai cues and even some expensive ones, as well as cheap cues from the far east are made with split shafts. This cheap trick is hidden inside the cue, even one piece cues. If you think that's ok and it's not going to affect feedback or the playability of the cue, you are entirely stupid, as well being a tight git. You've obviously not read the words of Mike Wooldridge on his website, detailing why a well built cue, no expense spared is a wise choice.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally Posted by sanman View Post
                cheap Thai cues play better than most cues. Secondly MIKE WOOLRIDGES website is his opinion based on his perceptions and not fact. Thirdly There is no trick regarding the split in the shaft. If you don't understand the reasons behind it I think you better shut up. Thai cue makers aren't going to be changing this anytime to suit you. In any case If I placed a whole bunch of cues with split and no split under the splices you would not be able to guess better than 50% which is which. That is a fact.
                There is no good reason to use a split shaft, except saving money and being cheap. A proper one-piece cue has a continuous shaft running from tip to tail and this gives superior feedback with angel ash. Fact. Cheap cue makers cut corners. Fact. It may not matter with kiln ash though, whose feedback is so poor, you could use 4 or 5 pieces in cue with no discernible difference.

                A Royce isn't built the same way as a Focus. Fact.

                An LP is built properly and for 5-600 quid is a good value cue, up there with Trev etc. They tend to play a bit stiff as Asi says (who owns a top of the range King) but so does a TP III. Not for me but some players like a cue like that, such as Higgins.
                Last edited by Big Splash!; 9 September 2016, 10:00 AM.

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                • #9
                  He don't get any better does he?

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                  • #10
                    Like I said. You would not know a split shaft cue playing with it. Neither would you know kiln dried from air dried either from sight or feel. I have air dried ash. I really don't see your point as they were not exceptional, the cues made from AD ash. If I was yapping from a point of no experience then you would have a basis for argument. For now please keep you opinions to yourself as you have been on about the virtues of AD shafts and whole length shafts etc. There really is no discernible difference. Take it from someone who has used both and made cues with both.

                    Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
                    There is no good reason to use a split shaft, except saving money and being cheap. A proper one-piece cue has a continuous shaft running from tip to tail and this gives superior feedback with angel ash. Fact. Cheap cue makers cut corners. Fact. It may not matter with kiln ash though, whose feedback is so poor, you could use 4 or 5 pieces in cue with no discernible difference.

                    A Royce isn't built the same way as a Focus. Fact.

                    An LP is built properly and for 5-600 quid is a good value cue, up there with Trev etc. They tend to play a bit stiff as Asi says (who owns a top of the range King) but so does a TP III. Not for me but some players like a cue like that, such as Higgins.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Split shafts are used to make cheap cues. Fact.

                      It's more expensive to find a board of ash that will yield 60'' of straight grain ash squares. Fact.

                      It's cheaper to use bits of ash and glue them together. Fact. Every company making chipboards knows this to be true. Fact.

                      Sanman: If you're using split shafts in your cues, I think the customers have a right to know. Especially if you're charging them premium prices. I can order a one-piece cue on TSF and have it for £200, with a single piece of ash running tip to tail and it will be as well built as a Trevor White with more playability. If you're charging more than that using split shafts, please be decent and fess up.
                      Last edited by Big Splash!; 9 September 2016, 11:37 AM.

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                      • #12
                        Where are these shafts joined at? It can't be that high up can it?is it more than six inches from the butt? If it is I don't see how it's harder to find a 60 inch bit of ash than a 54 inch bit that has straight arrows and side grain, even if it goes off straight in the last five or six inches most of that is planed down and covered with ebony.
                        This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                        https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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                        • #13
                          Firstly if you think you getting more playability than a TW well done to you. I still consider him to be one of the best around. Secondly I use split shafts as well as full length shafts. Something I have never been shy about that, so what is there to fess up. Look at the last page of "post pictures of my cue thread". I have no choice as I have very little access to premium quality ash or maple. For now I choose the best aesthetics as the determining factor on a shaft along with the stiffness. I have 3 suppliers who charge me a premium for a shaft, but I get what I want. Thing is as long as the cue I make exceeds the expectations of the customer that's all that matters to me. Guess what, I have only received complements for my work. Tell u what MB. Come down to Durban in South Africa. U may be surprised at what I produce. My cues are better than that crap angel whatever you using. Send me your email and I will send u some pics of real quality cues. All made by me. At the end of the day the customers I sell to play with the cues and have the option of accepting or leaving them before paying, which is something you rarely get a chance to do. Even if it is a custom order they still have that choice. sometimes it involves minor adjustments but no one has refused a cue made by me. I have sold a few(about 20). This is a hobby which is why I have not bothered with selling internationally as I supply the local market comfortably, but I have always had happy customers. SO if you think that you getting a better cue than a TW for 200 then by all means go ahead. Mine start from 220 pounds upwards. In case you interested. And I guarantee a cue that is a player.

                          Originally Posted by Big Splash! View Post
                          Split shafts are used to make cheap cues. Fact.

                          It's more expensive to find a board of ash that will yield 60'' of straight grain ash squares. Fact.

                          It's cheaper to use bits of ash and glue them together. Fact. Every company making chipboards knows this to be true. Fact.

                          Sanman: If you're using split shafts in your cues, I think the customers have a right to know. Especially if you're charging them premium prices. I can order a one-piece cue on TSF and have it for £200, with a single piece of ash running tip to tail and it will be as well built as a Trevor White with more playability. If you're charging more than that using split shafts, please be decent and fess up.

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                          • #14
                            Can you get any of any swiss steamed pearwood sanman?

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                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by jimmymoller View Post
                              Can you get any of any swiss steamed pearwood sanman?
                              I don't know. Can enquire if you are serious

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