Gap between the brass and the tip.

[Near]

Ahh... have i got a damaged cue?

I have a craftsman cue, which i inherited from my cousin who hasn't used it for a long time, and it wanted to change the tip, so i did some research on how to change it

and now theres a gap between the brass and the tip

What can you do? Does it really matter?

[gingerale]

Is the ferrule uneven or did you trim down too much of the wood?

Generally on fitting a tip, this gives some good advice
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...ad.php?t=11834

[MikeWooldridge]

more advice:

http://www.handmadecues.com/info/30-retipping.htm

[Near]

Is the ferrule uneven or did you trim down too much of the wood?

Generally on fitting a tip, this gives some good advice
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...ad.php?t=11834

hi guys, thanks for the reply.

The ferrule was uneven, middle bit was sticking up, or the side bits were sanded too much.

Well my cousin just got the cue, stuck it on but where the gaps are, hes put glue in between!

Will it affect game play? even though i am an amteur lol.

[MikeWooldridge]

you really need to make it flat....

[Near]

you really need to make it flat....

how would you make it flat? keep sanding it?

[trevs1]

If you use a very sharp blade, such as a Stanley blade or craft knife, gently scpe away the wood in the centre of the ferrule a bit at a time. This should make the top of the shaft flatter and flatter as you go, BUT, you do need to do it slowly and carefully so as not to damge the shaft or ferrule.

The best way to do it is to grind the top of the shaft and ferrule flat with an abrasive belt or disc sander, but again, it has to be done carefully.

If you try to file it, it may get no better and can even be made worse, unless you are very very god with a file.

It's tricky without the right tools or equipment.

[snookaman]

Ahh... have i got a damaged cue?

I have a craftsman cue, which i inherited from my cousin who hasn't used it for a long time, and it wanted to change the tip, so i did some research on how to change it

and now theres a gap between the brass and the tip

What can you do? Does it really matter?

Trevs1 is right. You need a cue top sander.

I think you need to cut the cue tip away and do it again. The used cue tip can be reused, but the bottom of it has to be sanded until it is flat with no old glue remains. The cue tip needs to be sanded flat as well.

Buy yourself a set of Tweeten Billiard Home Repair Kit. You will get 1) a cue top sander, 2) a plastic cue clamp, 3) a curved cue tip trimmer, 4) one tube of cue tip cement, 5) a dozen of assorted sizes of Elk Master cue tips for pool sticks - 12mm+, 6) 3 Master cue chalks, 7) Billiard cloth spots & mending tissue.

Good luck.

PS: One man's meat may be another man's poison. This repair kit works perfectly ok for me. The sand paper on the cue top sander is too coarse, but you can always change it to a suitable grade. I changed it to a 600 grit sand paper disc. I use a knife to cut away the old cue tip and this inexpensive instrument to get rid of the remaining glue, which is too delicate by using a knife that may leave permanent marks on the cue top. You don't need to buy a turning machine to do this small job; otherwise, the cost will justify you to take your cue to a pro shop.

I think, most people can do a perfect cue tip re-fit after 3 trails. Select "Cue Maintenance" at the website of Parris Cue. They have a one page tips on daily cue maintenance and retipping. The instructions are simple, straight forward, and very easy to follow.

[trevs1]

Trevs1 is right. You need a cue top sander.

I think you need to cut the cue tip away and do it again. The used cue tip can be reused, but the bottom of it has to be sanded until it is flat with no old glue remains. The cue tip needs to be sanded flat as well.

Buy yourself a set of Tweeten Billiard Home Repair Kit. You will get 1) a cue top sander, 2) a plastic cue clamp, 3) a curved cue tip trimmer, 4) one tube of cue tip cement, 5) a dozen of assorted sizes of Elk Master cue tips for pool sticks - 12mm+, 6) 3 Master cue chalks, 7) Billiard cloth spots & mending tissue.

Good luck.

I don't mean to be critical of the above post...BUT....

I wouldn't recommend the kit mentioned at all.

The cue top sander is a waste of time, you will be better off with a sharp stanley knife to trim the end of the shaft and ferrule. Once this is flat, it should remain flat as long as you use a blade and do not file it.

The tip clamp will not be necessary if you use the glue above, and, these things can and do mark the end of a shaft, so use with care.

The tip trimmer is unnecessary, you'll just need a small folded piece of 240 - 360 grit wet or dry paper, folded a few times into to the size of a playing card

The tip cement is not the best, you are far better off using a Loctite branded super glue, it's far superior.

The only tips likely to be useful are the ones which are the right size for your cue.

The cloth is of no major use.

The chalk might come in handy.

In my post above, I was not referring to a cue top sander, but a large and quite serious disc or belt sander of a more industrial nature. These are not readily available to most people, which is why I suggested the sharp blade idea instead. If you take your time with it, it's surprising how well this does work in flattening the top of a shaft.

[Qubit]

I don't mean to be critical of the above post...BUT....

I wouldn't recommend the kit mentioned at all.

The cue top sander is a waste of time, you will be better off with a sharp stanley knife to trim the end of the shaft and ferrule. Once this is flat, it should remain flat as long as you use a blade and do not file it.

The tip clamp will not be necessary if you use the glue above, and, these things can and do mark the end of a shaft, so use with care.

The tip trimmer is unnecessary, you'll just need a small folded piece of 240 - 360 grit wet or dry paper, folded a few times into to the size of a playing card

The tip cement is not the best, you are far better off using a Loctite branded super glue, it's far superior.

The only tips likely to be useful are the ones which are the right size for your cue.

The cloth is of no major use.

The chalk might come in handy.

In my post above, I was not referring to a cue top sander, but a large and quite serious disc or belt sander of a more industrial nature. These are not readily available to most people, which is why I suggested the sharp blade idea instead. If you take your time with it, it's surprising how well this does work in flattening the top of a shaft.

What Trev said above

Mostly its just applying a little logic with a little experimentation, and probably most importantly as Trev already said - take your time!

[poolqjunkie]

That tip tool with the sanding disc will move too much to really sand the top flat for you. It makes things worst if anything. I am speaking frm personla experience.
To use the blade can help you to make the top flat because you can always measure if the top is flat by placing the blade flat to the top surface.
Once the top is flat, then you only need to remove the excess glue and such in the future.
I would recommedn spending a bit of money and get it done by someone with the proper tool. You only need to face it once, then just use the blade in the future and you should be fine.

[ADR147]

the cue top sanders are total rubbish. in theory it should work in reality its not up to the job because its not acurate enough and you can't see what you are doing. a swan morton scalpel is best for me! use loctite gel not tweetens tip cement, it is too chalky and brittle.

[Semih_Sayginer]

. a swan morton scalpel is best for me! use loctite gel not tweetens tip cement, it is too chalky and brittle.

spot on. (any sharp scalpel / similar craft knife)

[snookaman]

That tip tool with the sanding disc will move too much to really sand the top flat for you. It makes things worst if anything. I am speaking frm personla experience.
To use the blade can help you to make the top flat because you can always measure if the top is flat by placing the blade flat to the top surface.
Once the top is flat, then you only need to remove the excess glue and such in the future.
I would recommedn spending a bit of money and get it done by someone with the proper tool. You only need to face it once, then just use the blade in the future and you should be fine.

Hi

Poolqjunkie,

The cue tip could be flat, but it might be slightly sloped. Then you may have a problem to shoot straight. Your plain shot will always produce some unintentional side sipn.

Use knife just to get rid of the old cue tip. Always use sandpaper to flatten or you may have caused permanent damage to your cue. Then you will really need a turning machine to flatten it again, or send it to a pro-shop for maintenance.