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Looking at buying USED BCE WESTBURY

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  • #31
    Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View Post
    A few things to try ,which might help getting you cueing through Les, they are just daft little exercises.
    First play the white up and down the spots with your eyes shut, just concentrate on the cue action, stay down in the finish position and see how far you have gone through, put a bit of chalk there,to one side, play the next shot up and down with your eyes open but the cue has to go through as far as the chalk.
    Another one is the deliberate foul, place a red say four inches in front of the white and try and play the shot so it becomes a push shot, so the cue white and red are all in contact, you will have to get right through the white to manage this.
    jabbing and a floating bridge, just screams out movement to me, so until you sort it, you will never move on.
    Les:

    Yesterday I was thinking of adding this to the original thing I sent you. Both of these exercises are very good to teach you to accelerate through the cueball. When you have your eyes closed put ALL of your concentration on your grip hand and keep it SMOOTH and drive it all the way to the chest.

    Terry
    Terry Davidson
    IBSF Master Coach & Examiner

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    • #32
      Originally Posted by lesedwards View Post
      Maybe Geoff can answer this question after looking at the photo. I have a chance to buy this table at a great price but I am 3 hours away from its location so they have sent me a lot of photos but I have been trying to determine if it is a steel block table. There is one photo which I gave attached which looks strange compared to my Steel Block Burroughs n Watts. I will post a bunch more photos shortly. Any info would be great.


      those are not steel block cushions, the steel would have the feather strip on the back side in its groove. and wood freizes would come as a support to the steel block. so basically the cushion is 2 piece, one being the steel with the rubber and the other the freize with the back panel.

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      • #33
        my advice, if your current table is Imperial size slate, with six bolts in each cushion, get a second hand steel blocks with friezes, and pocket plates, measured to official pocket templates. it would be a great upgrade and enough to feel like playing on an official table.

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        • #34
          Originally Posted by drjef28 View Post
          my advice, if your current table is Imperial size slate, with six bolts in each cushion, get a second hand steel blocks with friezes, and pocket plates, measured to official pocket templates. it would be a great upgrade and enough to feel like playing on an official table.
          My current table is a steel blocked table. Just looking for something different.
          " Practice to improve not just to waste time "
          " 43 Match - 52 Practice - 13 Reds in Line Up "
          http://www.ontariosnooker.club

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          • #35
            Originally Posted by lesedwards View Post
            My current table is a steel blocked table. Just looking for something different.
            Then maybe you need to have your pockets cut to template. A well cut pocket would accept any ball hitting the inside jaw. For example if you have a ball on touching the rail and drive it as fast as u can with ur cue( assuming u cued it straight) to the corner pocket along the rail the pocket would accept the ball. A sign of bad cut is the ball would rattle the jaws and leave the pocket or even jump from the cushion. As a sign of poor cut is the ball rattling the jaws, even if it goes in. If it hits the far jaw then it should drop. Not rattle.

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            • #36
              Originally Posted by drjef28 View Post
              Then maybe you need to have your pockets cut to template. A well cut pocket would accept any ball hitting the inside jaw. For example if you have a ball on touching the rail and drive it as fast as u can with ur cue( assuming u cued it straight) to the corner pocket along the rail the pocket would accept the ball. A sign of bad cut is the ball would rattle the jaws and leave the pocket or even jump from the cushion. As a sign of poor cut is the ball rattling the jaws, even if it goes in. If it hits the far jaw then it should drop. Not rattle.
              there is a whole other thread about Les' problems with his pockets especially this middle ones.
              He has had templates, shaved, re-rubbered, etc., etc. and has lost confidence in his current table.
              Up the TSF! :snooker:

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              • #37
                Originally Posted by DeanH View Post
                there is a whole other thread about Les' problems with his pockets especially this middle ones.
                He has had templates, shaved, re-rubbered, etc., etc. and has lost confidence in his current table.
                Dean has been following my problems....LOL Now the width us good but they hit into the wood which has not worked out very well. Now if I try to hit it hard from the rail it will not go. Hits wood but I will live with it for now.
                " Practice to improve not just to waste time "
                " 43 Match - 52 Practice - 13 Reds in Line Up "
                http://www.ontariosnooker.club

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