Some questions about cues

[bluenose1940]

I have often wondered about the differences in what snooker cues are available to buy. I'm sure that the more 'snooker savvy' members will put me right here. My questions are :-

What is the real difference in the quality of a cue costing say £100.00 to one that a good amateur or pro would use (I have no idea what the cost of one of these would be). As far as I know, most of them are made from the same type of wood. Most of them are of similar length give or take an inch or so and, most of them have a tip of around the 9 or 10 mm mark. The overall weight of cues seem to fall into similar figures, varying mainly by only the odd ounce or two. The butt diameter doesn't seem to vary much either. Can you really tell if the butt has been machine or hand-spliced and does it really matter?

If you looked at two cues side by side, one from each end of the price spectrum, can you tell the difference just from the visual aspect and, how can you tell?

Is a one-piece cue better than a two piece (most pro's seem to use a one-piece I think) and, is a two-thirds split better than a fifty-fifty split and, if there is a difference, what would make either one of these better than the other?

I realise that most of the top pro's would almost certainly have their cue tailor made and would probably spend hours playing with it and having it 'fine tuned' until they felt that it was just right. This is probably not a practical option for your average club/league player so, how do they spend there hard earned cash wisely on choosing a cue?

I didn't start playng until I retired at 65. I'm 82 now and can knock in breaks of between 25 to 35 with the odd 40+ and have recently had a couple of 50+ers, which I'm more than pleased about. My big problem is consistency.

So the final question is, what are the chances of my game improving if I treated myself to a decent cue and, as above, how do I tell a good 'un from an average one?

Apologies if these seem like stupid questions but I am an old wrinkley now.

[Nifty50]

Nice post Bluenose. This subject has been debated many times but worth re-visiting for new members.
I’m no cue expert so I’ll leave it up to others to add comments.
You’re right that all cues are basically very similar but there’s a big difference in the quality of wood being used. Poor quality wood just won’t give you the same hit. As an amateur I can tell the difference blindfold between a cheap rack cue and a quality cue. Mind you there are exceptions. You do find a nice rack cue from time to time. I’ll leave it there and let the experts have there say.
PS. Great to hear how your game is progressing.

[Cue crafty]

Hi Bluenose, your game sounds in decent shape. Cues are quite subjective and it’s worth remembering exotic wood splices push the price of a cue up and look nice to some peoples eyes but they play no part in improving a cue’s performance, so this element in a cue is purely cosmetic.

old vintage cues where generally more whippy and had most of the weight in the butt end, these are harder to use with the modern Aramith balls as you will tend to put more unwanted side on with a whippy flex cue.

if you are using the modern Aramith tournament champion balls in your club you might find some benefit in trying one of the modern Thai brand cues that have a more forward weight in the shaft so overall weight of the cue is better distributed down the cue and in the shaft (rather than mainly in the butt of the cue) generally makers like Maximus, Phoenix and Tom Classic have stiffer flex shafts and a lot of players have found better consistency and ball striking using these with these balls.

The difference in quality from the £100 mark into the £250 an upwards bracket is the feel of the cue, and how it plays. I speak from my own experience of trying Woods cues and Grand cues which are cheaper Chinese cues and they don't feel as good when you pick them up and when you play with them. The Thai brands I mention above all have a lovely finish to them in terms of oiled shafts which never need more than a damp and then dry wipe to make them slick and slide through your bridge like velvet. The cheaper cues don't have that generally.

If you can try a few out you understand what I mean about the feel and the solid hit . doubt I've covered all your questions but hopefully others will - Good luck 😉

[trains]

I'm not very knowledgeable with cues but regarding a two thirds or 3/4 split compared to a fifty - fifty split the brass joint on a fifty - fifty split cue tended to get caught on my chin stubble, off putting and a piercing unpleasant pull on your face which obviously would put you off, so i don't bother with fifty - fifty split cues anymore, i only have cues somewhere split around the 3/4 mark.
I'd be perfectly ok with a one - piece just that they're a bit too long for my car.

[Nifty50]

PS Bluenose. Would be interested in details of the cue your currently playing with. If you can knock in a 50 with it then there’s nowt wrong. Different tip may help a bit but who knows. All trial and infuriating error.

[DougieL]

Have a look at this video, explains how cues are made and difference in prices.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aUS4Hu6yWKs

Cheers,
Dougie.

[bluenose1940]

PS Bluenose. Would be interested in details of the cue your currently playing with. If you can knock in a 50 with it then there’s nowt wrong. Different tip may help a bit but who knows. All trial and infuriating error.

Thank you chaps for your interesting replies. As always, very much appreciated.

Nifty50, my cue is a Master Cue from Blue Moon Leisure. What are your thoughts on that please?

[Nifty50]

Thank you chaps for your interesting replies. As always, very much appreciated.
Nifty50, my cue is a Master Cue from Blue Moon Leisure. What are your thoughts on that please?

I’ve heard of Mastercue but never seen one. I think there’s many different types. Craftsman Cues of Leeds used to sell them IIRC. If it feels ok in your hands and you can play the normal shots, screw, stun, side etc, then stick with it.
Just had a look at Greenbeize website. They have a couple of Mastercue for sale. Must be ok if Stuart Green is selling them.

[Mark187187]

I’ve heard of Mastercue but never seen one. I think there’s many different types. Craftsman Cues of Leeds used to sell them IIRC. If it feels ok in your hands and you can play the normal shots, screw, stun, side etc, then stick with it.
Just had a look at Greenbeize website. They have a couple of Mastercue for sale. Must be ok if Stuart Green is selling them.

I had a master cue and was very happy with it for what I paid (which wasn't much). I was as happy with the shaft as I was with my Maximus which was double the price. The butt splices weren't as precise on the Master Cue and there were more limited options for more exotic woods, but in terms of playability the cue was right up their with anything I've owned. I brought it from Greenbaize also.

[Cue crafty]

Master cue were one of the first quality Thai cue makers, they have built and maintained a good reputation. You have a decent cue there.

[bluenose1940]

Master cue were one of the first quality Thai cue makers, they have built and maintained a good reputation. You have a decent cue there.

I think that you are right Cue crafty, I think that I will stick with it. I've had it for about 12 years now I think. I can't remember exactly what I paid for it but I have it in mind that I paid something along the lines of £250.00 for the cue and an aluminium case with a small extension included.

Thanks again for the input chaps, always extremely helpful.

Hope you all enjoyed last nights final!