Free ball on colors and a size of the table questions.

[nazarov]

Hello, everybody.

Excuse me for my not ideal English, I am from Russia, Moscow.
I have two questions in different areas - about the rules and about the size of table.

1) Free ball rule on colors.
I've got a free ball with all colors left on the table, no reds left. I've nominated the green ball, potted it. So, I've got 2 points, green is respotted. Than I've potted the yellow, and my opponent said it should be respotted, too.
He argued that he saw this kind of situation at Power Snooker tournament.
My understanding is that yellow should not be respotted.
Who is right? What particular paragraph of rules should be used?


2) I am planning to set a snooker table in my house. Due to the limitations of the room available only 10-feet snooker table could be set there. At the same time, I have only length limitations, with no problems with width.
All standard 10-feet tables are also has also width about 1 feet less than a full-size 12-feet table. I have an option to order a 10-feet table with unchanged width. Of course, it would be significantly more expensive, than a standard 10-feet table.
Please advice, should I pay for keeping a width unchanged, or it would be better to cut the width also?

Thank you for your answers.

[nrage]

Hello, everybody.

Excuse me for my not ideal English, I am from Russia, Moscow.
I have two questions in different areas - about the rules and about the size of table.

1) Free ball rule on colors.
I've got a free ball with all colors left on the table, no reds left. I've nominated the green ball, potted it. So, I've got 2 points, green is respotted. Than I've potted the yellow, and my opponent said it should be respotted, too.
He argued that he saw this kind of situation at Power Snooker tournament.
My understanding is that yellow should not be respotted.
Who is right? What particular paragraph of rules should be used?

I believe you are correct. The yellow is not re-spotted. Rule section 7 states that colours are re-spotted until finally potted in rule section 3(f), where they are taken in order.

7. Spotting Colours
Any colour pocketed or forced off the table shall be spotted before the next stroke is made, until finally potted under Section 3 Rule 3(f).

3. Mode of Play
(f) (i) If a Red, or a free ball nominated as a Red, is potted, the same player plays the next stroke and the next ball on is a colour of the striker’s choice which, if potted, is scored and the colour is then spotted.
(ii) The break is continued by potting Reds and colours alternately until all the Reds are off the table and, where applicable, a colour has been played at following the potting of the last Red.
(iii) The colours then become on in the ascending order of their value as per Section 3 Rule 1(a) and when next potted remain off the table, except as provided for in Rule 4 below, and the striker plays the next stroke at the next colour on.

So, in short you only re-spot colours potted following a red, or free ball nominated "as a red".

In your case, as the free ball nominated was not nominated as a red, but as the yellow, it's worth 2 (as you said) and is itself re-spotted. The ball on remains the yellow, and when you pot it you do so under section 3(f)(iii) meaning it stays off the table.

[Kyra]

As for you freeball question:
Your opponent was wrong with his assumption that the yellow should be respottet. You pottet the green as "yellow", so green is beeing respottet. After that yellow was the ball on. The rules say, that the colours are being respottet until they are pottet according to the rules. Meaning: No reds are left.Then the colours will be pottet in acending order of their value (yellow, green. etc).

3. Mode of Play
...
(f) (ii) The break is continued by potting Reds and colours alternately until all the Reds are off the table and, where applicable, a colour has been played at following the potting of the last Red.
(iii) The colours then become on in the ascending order of their value as per Section 3 Rule 1(a) and when next potted remain off the table, except as provided for in Rule 4 below, and the striker plays the next stroke at the next colour on.

I hope this helps.

[Terry Davidson]

naz:

On your table size question, order a 10 x 5 table to keep it as 2 squares, which is the principle behind all billiards tables.

If you order a 12 x 6 and have it shortened to a 10 x 6 you will be memorizing incorrect angles on doubles and positional play where you use more than one cushion.

Otherwise, get a short cue and order a 12 x 6 as the shorter distance to your wall will only come up when you are within 1ft or less of a cushion on the length of the table, which in this case would normally be after a safety shot with cueball left on the baulk cushion. It's not all that often we are playing directly up the table from the top cushion although it happens of course. I would recommend you get a 12 x 6 and the short cue.

Terry

[nazarov]

naz:

On your table size question, order a 10 x 5 table to keep it as 2 squares, which is the principle behind all billiards tables.

If you order a 12 x 6 and have it shortened to a 10 x 6 you will be memorizing incorrect angles on doubles and positional play where you use more than one cushion.

Otherwise, get a short cue and order a 12 x 6 as the shorter distance to your wall will only come up when you are within 1ft or less of a cushion on the length of the table, which in this case would normally be after a safety shot with cueball left on the baulk cushion. It's not all that often we are playing directly up the table from the top cushion although it happens of course. I would recommend you get a 12 x 6 and the short cue.

Terry

Terry,
Thank you for the great answer.
The problem is not only about the size of the room, but also the floor. THe table is going to be on the third floor, thus I had to set an additional power bulks between the floors. Construction features of the house are that I cannot put power bulks for all of the 3rd floor, so unfortunately I have to live with a 10-feet.