wish i hadn,t asked!!!!!no nearer finding extension!!!!. think i,ll stick to useing club "fishing rod"
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
extension for trevor white cue
Collapse
X
-
I personally do not like holding a very heavy mini. Also, the mini if it is made from wood could warp. I prefer the kind made lighter and preferably made with fibre or aluminum.
I had a long wooden extension made for a 3/4 cue before by a well known cue maker, It was made with some light color wood and then stained black. Once it got dented it showed the light color of the wood underneath so I needed to color it again, and then it warp so bad that it simply became useless.
In the US and Canada we use thread counts such as 3/8 x 10 or 3/8 x 11. (3/8 x 10 means the pin is 3/8 in diameter and there are 10 thread in one inch.) BSM or ACME does not tell me anything about thread counts, unless I already have one sitting in front of me.Last edited by poolqjunkie; 29 October 2009, 04:03 PM.
Comment
-
Originally Posted by poolqjunkie View PostI personally do not like holding a very heavy mini. Also, the mini if it is made from wood could warp. I prefer the kind made lighter and preferably made with fibre or aluminum.
I had a long wooden extension made for a 3/4 cue before by a well known cue maker, It was made with some light color wood and then stained black. Once it got dented it showed the light color of the wood underneath so I needed to color it again, and then it warp so bad that it simply became useless.
In the US and Canada we use thread counts such as 3/8 x 10 or 3/8 x 11. (3/8 x 10 means the pin is 3/8 in diameter and there are 10 thread in one inch.) BSM or ACME does not tell me anything about thread counts, unless I already have one sitting in front of me.sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!
Comment
-
Originally Posted by RGCirencester View PostWas that master cue by any chance? They are the only ones i know that sell an ebonised 18" extension.
I suspect that without any taper on the extension the wood may warp easier but I am not sure.
Comment
-
Originally Posted by poolqjunkie View PostNo, it was an old cue made in the late 80's by a very reputable Uk cue maker. The extension was built to attached to the 3/4 joint.
I suspect that without any taper on the extension the wood may warp easier but I am not sure.sigpic A Truly Beakerific Long Pot Sir!
Comment
-
Originally Posted by poolqjunkie View PostIIn the US and Canada we use thread counts such as 3/8 x 10 or 3/8 x 11. (3/8 x 10 means the pin is 3/8 in diameter and there are 10 thread in one inch.) BSM or ACME does not tell me anything about thread counts, unless I already have one sitting in front of me.
However unless the cuemaker tells you what thread it is, the only way of identifying it is to have one in your hand and taking it to a company that has a set of thread gauges, which are very expensive. :snooker:
Comment
-
Originally Posted by RGCirencester View PostYes I believe these used to be common before mini butt joints existed. But Given a say 18" extension that screws into the bottom of your cue it should not have any more chance of warping than the butt of your cue itself surely?
I know some of these wood extensions are made with very cheap woods such as ramin woods.
I suspect that for a long piece of wood without any tapering, it may warp easier than a piece of wood with a taper, but I am not sure.
If I were to do something like this myself, I woudl probably core the long wood with a dowel, I think that should prevent warpage and reduce weight.
The long extensions were longer than 18" for sure, I sold the cue now so I do not know how long. If I have to guess I would say may be 30".
I would rather just get an extension made by metal, so I know it will nto warp and is more durable and looks better when it gets dented...Last edited by poolqjunkie; 29 October 2009, 07:09 PM.
Comment
-
Originally Posted by stan-mullin View PostThis is worldwide method of identifying different thread forms, diameters, pitch, angle of thread etc are available on the internet.
However unless the cuemaker tells you what thread it is, the only way of identifying it is to have one in your hand and taking it to a company that has a set of thread gauges, which are very expensive. :snooker:
For American Pool Cues, there are many types of threads but they are all kind of standardized. In snooker, I am not sure.
I would think if a cue maker machines his own he would still need a tap, and the tap should be one of many standardized threads, so it should be kind of standardized, too. Unless if there is a difference in thread counts like that between matrix and imperial system that I am not aware of. Or...if the cue maker has a tap custom made for his own threads...but why would anyone want to do that for the SD joint?Last edited by poolqjunkie; 29 October 2009, 07:10 PM.
Comment
Comment