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  • #16
    Originally Posted by nrage View Post
    What do you guys think of this video/example of how to do it:
    http://www.youtube.com/user/kevy62#p/u/46/HfKCh6See3Y

    It all seemed to make sense to me, but I don't have any experience doing it so I wouldn't really know.
    Oh yes, all quite easy... and quite easy to get it wrong.

    1. The knife braked against the thumb, you'll end up watching your thumb not the ferrule. Have a plaster ready.
    Lay the shaft on a table and pare off with a knife held properly.
    2. Sandpaper freehand, not a good idea. Use something hard to keep the paper flat if you must. In fact experts never use sandpaper, a super sharp knife has infinitely better control and you can see what you are doing at all times. A knife point can be used to "key" the surface just as easily and actually better.
    Get the end nibbled or out of square and you're in trouble.

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    • #17
      damn! I can see it going all wrong - I learned it early in the day tho - never cut against your hand :P I have enough scars on my left hand to demonstrate this principle :P

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by Waya View Post
        damn! I can see it going all wrong - I learned it early in the day tho - never cut against your hand :P I have enough scars on my left hand to demonstrate this principle :P
        1. Lay the shaft down.
        2. Tease against the join with the knife blade in a small area, rotate, repeat till all way around. It will lift off.
        3. Remove residue with an extremely sharp blade very gently, sharp means you have to apply nill pressure and therefore will damage nothing. Scrape with all the blade touching at 90 degrees. Sanding is not necessary if carried out properly.
        4. Take new tip and set down against sand paper on flat surface, rubbing will flatten bottom of tip smooth and key at same time.
        5. Superglue GEL is what you should use, this will reduce the chance of it oozing out. Place on bottom of tip ONLY. Cover thinly and place without waiting. Centre it, this is easy. Let it overhang evenly.
        Place a piece of paper between tip and finger and press firmly and hold for a minute. Or use a tip clamp.
        6. Take off excess with sharp knife and smooth the side and round edge the tip. This is the hardest part and it has to be shown to you and you have to learn. Nothing wrong with the method in the video clip...this part he has got right.

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        • #19
          Guys, I have to say - I loved the green Triangle! It is an awesome chalk! I need more of it! Gotta talk to my boss, he should bring me a box or 2.. may be one of those 144 deals... you CAN buy the 144 pieces green triangle in UK, right?

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          • #20
            Is better to use a scalpel instead of Stanley knife.

            Waya, 144 pieces of chalk will last you two life times. Are you hoping to live that long?
            :snooker:

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            • #21
              Originally Posted by Acrowot View Post
              Waya, 144 pieces of chalk will last you two life times. Are you hoping to live that long?
              :snooker:
              HELL yeah! I will live for ever, didn't I say? For ever and ever and ever and then some

              You know: Live for ever or die trying!

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              • #22
                I've tried the silver cup chalk I've got
                24 cubes of the stuff and I absolutely
                hate it especially the tan it's really grainy
                and awful to use
                I think I'll stick to triangle from now on

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                • #23
                  I love the triangle chalk. its awesome. I love how it sticks to the tip.. I am deffo sticking with it

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                  • #24
                    Sorry to dig up this old thread but I just stumbled accross it on a Google search. On the point of re-tipping, I completely disagree with the majority of people who sand the top of the cue and the base of the tip before glueing. When using superglue gel it's far better to scrape them smooth using the flat of a blade so that both surfaces are smooth like glass. It's because it's a chemical reaction forming the bond that having a rough pitted surface actually reduced the amount of cohesion.

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                    • #25
                      Sounds a little suspect but I have an open mind. Can you post links to back up your statement?

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                      • #26
                        What about Mike Wooldridge tips, I have not had a bad one yet. You can order them off eBay.

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                        • #27
                          Originally Posted by BraveBen View Post
                          Sorry to dig up this old thread but I just stumbled accross it on a Google search. On the point of re-tipping, I completely disagree with the majority of people who sand the top of the cue and the base of the tip before glueing. When using superglue gel it's far better to scrape them smooth using the flat of a blade so that both surfaces are smooth like glass. It's because it's a chemical reaction forming the bond that having a rough pitted surface actually reduced the amount of cohesion.
                          I've seen people who use the blade on the top of the cue but not on the tip base . Interesting idea .
                          Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !

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                          • #28
                            Here, I've done a little video to demonstrate: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=iokt55&s=7

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                            • #29
                              The top of the shaft / ferrule is best scraped level with a blade yes, but the tips are best sanded lightly to flatten them off.

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                              • #30
                                Originally Posted by BraveBen View Post
                                Here, I've done a little video to demonstrate: http://tinypic.com/player.php?v=iokt55&s=7
                                its a lot easier with a bit of 240 grit paper!
                                https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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