That's the one that i am looking for Sharkster but they don't appear to sell them on Ebay anymore.......just the GRAND ones .
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David wu cues on ebay
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Originally Posted by sharkster63 View PostComing soon...I try hard, play hard and dont always succeed, at first.!!!!:snooker:
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Originally Posted by neil taperell View PostThat's the one that i am looking for Sharkster but they don't appear to sell them on Ebay anymore.......just the GRAND ones .
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Originally Posted by dave121260 View PostIs there a difference between the ones with David Wu and grand written on the badges ? I thought they were both made by the same manufacturers
As these cues become more popular I can see these ending up around the £300 for the emperor range in the not to distant future.
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Just given the one I bought on EBay last week for £38 to the ex pro down my club tonight .
He rated them very highly , he wanted the one badged David Wu as he liked the 1st one that he bought .
He played with it tonight and even he could not believe how effortless it was to screw the white back .
Absolutely unreal cues for the money .Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !
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Was that a grand cue Neil, I got one for roughly the same price, I was amazed it was real ebony, splicing was nice and even and felt nice in the hand. Downside was it got sticky quickly ,did yours? And the tip end was very flexible and I thought, oh this is going to be like cueing with a piece of spaghetti but it wasn't ( I suppose that's not a fault then lol)This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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Originally Posted by neil taperell View PostJust given the one I bought on EBay last week for £38 to the ex pro down my club tonight .
He rated them very highly , he wanted the one badged David Wu as he liked the 1st one that he bought .
He played with it tonight and even he could not believe how effortless it was to screw the white back .
Absolutely unreal cues for the money .
I got a pretty grand for £31 delivered (slight second...with the blemish removed on re-finish)....though it doesn't suit me as well it's a stunning cue for the money. As you say, an absolute bargain.
...however, my at least one, maybe two, of my Butters unbadged is ahead of it....though that order might change if I start to use straight grain for sighting (then my butters badged, and then the snakewood emperor, will probably occupy the top two slots).
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Originally Posted by itsnoteasy View PostWas that a grand cue Neil, I got one for roughly the same price, I was amazed it was real ebony, splicing was nice and even and felt nice in the hand. Downside was it got sticky quickly ,did yours?....
Beautiful with an oil finish.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Special-Of...w7AZ46XIdiXhqQ
Emperor say 'we select naturally dried wood to make the best cues'.
What could they mean? I wonder who could own this company.
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Sorry to ask but how did you do this Tetricky?This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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Originally Posted by barrywhite View Posthttp://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Special-Of...w7AZ46XIdiXhqQ
Emperor say 'we select naturally dried wood to make the best cues'.
What could they mean? I wonder who could own this company.This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8
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I sand the cue down until it's down to the wood (initially 600 grit, gradually getting finer until you get to the sort of finish you want). Then prep with 1/3 each thinner, raw linseed, and tung. Then with a few coats of linseed over a couple of weeks. Then finish with multiple coats of tung over the course of a few weeks. I use fine steel wool between coats if I want to keep the finish fine. I will use more or less linseed, depending on how much I want to darken the cue....with less or more tung to compensate and get the coat I want.
Patience is the key. Particularly with linseed. It may take a long time to properly dry. After applying the coat wipe it down after about an hour, then leave a long time to dry, and periodically buff it (get the finish warm to the touch with buffing, it helps the oil set hard).
I'm not sure I have my oils right, because the cue can still be oily a couple of months later...but with regular buffing it does dry off eventually. The finish on my cues is now very good....I can balance the colour (I like quite an aged honey looking shaft), and the smoothness of the finish.
There is a thread (at least one) on cue finishing in the cues section of the forum.
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