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  • cue finishing

    any idea on how to get lacquer like finishing on cue butt using oil finish?

    i read that sanding it using higher grit sand paper does the trick and it should be more than 2000 grit

  • #2
    Yes, use the Aurora Cues method, it's here:
    http://www.auroracues.com/finish.php

    It doesn't have to be Aurora oil but Aurora oil is the best IMO.

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    • #3
      I had done that before.

      I use 320 sand paper first to remove the lacquer. Beware if yours a 3/4 cue that it's better to avoid sanding across the joint as it would cause scratch around the joint. Then use finer sand paper including 1000 and finally 2000 for smooth surface. After that, just similar to oiling the shaft that to repeat 6 or 7 times of thin layer of oil with light sanding with 2000 sand paper and buffing in between.

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      • #4
        Hi sam, so after sanding, i will oil the butt and let it dry, then do you sand it with the oil or wipe away the oil?

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        • #5
          little and often is the trick.
          https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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          • #6
            i am sanding now on 1500 grit, later on i will move on to 3000. and hopefully tomorrow to 5000

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by tofushop193 View Post
              Hi sam, so after sanding, i will oil the butt and let it dry, then do you sand it with the oil or wipe away the oil?
              Once you've done the prep work/sanding, polish with a lint free cloth, then apply your oil liberally, leave for around 10 mins then wipe off all the excess oil, then leave to dry for however long the manufacturer of the oil recommends, lightly sand with fine wet & dry or 0000 wire wool then buff and polish again before applying the next coat if oil, build up the layers until you're happy with the finish

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              • #8
                hi Dave, so for the 2nd coat I will have to oil the cue, leave it and wipe off the excess oil and let it to dry and then lightly sand again and polish.

                just repeat this steps until I get what I want, is that it?

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                • #9
                  Originally Posted by tofushop193 View Post
                  hi Dave, so for the 2nd coat I will have to oil the cue, leave it and wipe off the excess oil and let it to dry and then lightly sand again and polish.

                  just repeat this steps until I get what I want, is that it?
                  Yes mate, minimum of 3 coats

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                  • #10
                    is it recommended to wet sand it as stated in the aurora website? i worry that the oil and ebony dust will form a black paste and taint the burr splicing

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                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by tofushop193 View Post
                      is it recommended to wet sand it as stated in the aurora website? i worry that the oil and ebony dust will form a black paste and taint the burr splicing
                      I wouldn't recommend wet sanding

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                      • #12
                        cue finishing

                        i use micro mesh sandpaper up to 12000. polishing at least with 8000 and 12000 will make a difference:

                        http://www.amazon.com/MICRO-MESH-SANDING-SHEETS-INTRODUCTORY/dp/B000H6HIK2
                        mind control > body control > cue control > ball control

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                        • #13
                          I'm curious as to what people use for oil finishes, when rolling their own so to speak? I've taken an old cue back to the wood (formerly varnished) and am experimenting with a third linseed, a third tung, and a third thinners (roughly). It seems a bit thin though. Need to experiment on old machine spliced rubbish, before letting myself loose on finishing the two nice Butters cues I've just bought.

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                          • #14
                            Have you tried something like Tru Oil ?
                            It is easy to use and can give a glossy shine, or if you knock it back between coats you can get a satin type finish.
                            A lot of people have used it on their guitars.

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                            • #15
                              I haven't. I have a problem. I'm a bit of a weirdo. I like to know what goes in things, and what they do. So super top cue mans special oil might be fantastic...but I find myself disinclined to use it. I don't know what's in it, how much it's being marked up, and how long super top cue man might be around. When I bought my parris, years ago, he chucked in a glass of linseed oil (chucked in! after many hundreds of pounds of cue and case!). It's the closest I've got to made for purpose oil.

                              I'm on the third coat with this one I have. I'm amazed at how quickly it's soaking in/drying. A good glossy coat after the first coat, better after the second......if anything it's absorbing too quick, and drying too fast. Might push up the linseed content a bit (dropping the proportion of thinners and tung), but it's already looking very serviceable.....wet to dry in fifteen to twenty minutes...for the first coat, and very glossy on the buff.

                              I was just curious what mixes other people use, and their relative effectiveness. If for no other reason than to give me confidence I'm on the right track before applying it to a NICE cue!

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