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  • bricktip
    replied
    [QUOTE=Geoff Large;607492]You will have to make a bit from an old arbour bit from ebay

    I just went to the diy shop to see if there is anything that could work. They had something that looked something like the bit you mentioned, for making rebates in wood. I don't know if that would be hard enough though - and I think could twist out of shape. Are the arbour bits you're talking about very hard?

    Leave a comment:


  • bricktip
    replied
    Took me a while to realize you meant "change". I thought you mis-spelt "chain"!

    The thing with changing them is that the original ones are quite a low profile. I imagine the hex bolts would protrude making it difficult to put the decorative panels on.

    Leave a comment:


  • maryfield
    replied
    Chane the screws to a hex head frame bolt. The BCE fixing usually has a spring washer to prevent loosening. You will get the frame tighter with a proper frame bolt which you can tighten with a socket.

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  • Ex Enbild Fitter
    replied
    I've got one that fits on the end of my socket brace, I also have a homemade one for my carpenters brace somewhere but always favoured the socket brace one!

    Leave a comment:


  • bricktip
    replied
    Interesting. Was there ever a special tool for these bolts, or was it always a case of improvising?

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  • Geoff Large
    replied
    Originally Posted by bricktip View Post
    Hi,
    Does anyone know of a special tool for the frame bolts on the BCE Westbury? For those that don't know, It's a huge slot head (25mm) but way too big for a normal screwdriver.
    You will have to make a bit from an old arbour bit from ebay , you will also require a Carpenters bit brace

    Take the old bit and grind it down then form a large slot bit to fit into the slot on the large frame bolt .

    look at this on ebay the bit stored at the right side of the roll is the one to grind down

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brace-2-an...item519bece596

    also
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VINTAGE-BR...item3cbec06ef5

    a closer look at the bit
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/vintage-la...item27c0bc6ad5
    Last edited by Geoff Large; 28 November 2011, 09:01 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • bricktip
    replied
    Hi,
    Does anyone know of a special tool for the frame bolts on the BCE Westbury? For those that don't know, It's a huge slot head (25mm) but way too big for a normal screwdriver.

    Leave a comment:


  • sklskl
    replied
    Originally Posted by andy carson View Post
    could be a daft thing, which way are you brushing the table where its rolling off?
    Towards the end where the balls are racked. In straight consinsent lines with the nap.

    Leave a comment:


  • andy carson
    replied
    Originally Posted by sklskl View Post
    I used the inclinometer today on the table to sort out the level and surprisingly it was only 0.1 degrees out in 2 places.

    When I sorted it out the table still didn't feel right and the ball still curled towards the cushion on certain cushions so I just levelled it with eye with the white ball trial and test method. I eventually got it right but I'm thinking whether my purchase was all in vain?

    I also noticed that when I test the level with the white ball across diagonal pockets I play it as slow and consistent as possible that it just reaches the other pocket and when it does curl left or right I get frustrated because I'm just constantly playing around with the legs. What I did realise though is that the test shots I play are so slow that realistically I will never play those that much in a real game so am I worrying over nufin....

    I dunno maybe I've just had enough. Would the engineers level have been more accurate?

    Table is fine level is fine at the mo but lets' say in a few months time it does become a bit unlevel I may just pay a proffessional to come sort it out who has a better eye for these things and maybe do the pyramid thing for me as well.

    could be a daft thing, which way are you brushing the table where its rolling off?

    Leave a comment:


  • sklskl
    replied
    I used the inclinometer today on the table to sort out the level and surprisingly it was only 0.1 degrees out in 2 places.

    When I sorted it out the table still didn't feel right and the ball still curled towards the cushion on certain cushions so I just levelled it with eye with the white ball trial and test method. I eventually got it right but I'm thinking whether my purchase was all in vain?

    I also noticed that when I test the level with the white ball across diagonal pockets I play it as slow and consistent as possible that it just reaches the other pocket and when it does curl left or right I get frustrated because I'm just constantly playing around with the legs. What I did realise though is that the test shots I play are so slow that realistically I will never play those that much in a real game so am I worrying over nufin....

    I dunno maybe I've just had enough. Would the engineers level have been more accurate?

    Table is fine level is fine at the mo but lets' say in a few months time it does become a bit unlevel I may just pay a proffessional to come sort it out who has a better eye for these things and maybe do the pyramid thing for me as well.

    Leave a comment:


  • Geoff Large
    replied
    I do not think it would be wise to cover Good Brick work up on the outside of a house Garage if it is in keeping with the property even if it is a detached Garage , my garage was perfectly ok and passed by the building inspector for building regs , with a coating of water proof paint on the inside then a grid of 3 inch studding with insulation wool inside the studding then heat reflecting plaster Board , No damp in that room in 23 years of use , I remember when I finnshed Decorating it just before christmas 1988 as the Lokerbie pan am 103 air crash happened that night I finnished laying the carpet tiles .
    insulation was that good it was the warmest room in the house , no sweating to the walls , I had the walls checked some years later when part of the plaster board had to come off for wiring in a new fuse box for outbuildings . not a single trace of damp or mildew rot inside the new studding .

    Geoff
    Last edited by Geoff Large; 28 October 2011, 06:50 PM.

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  • Redphex
    replied
    Originally Posted by Geoff Large View Post
    Try to insulate the walls , this will knock off the interior size of the room
    Sorry, I have to intervene on that
    Proper insulation is done on the outer side of the wall. If you insulate on the inside, the dew point will stay inside the wall, which is quite the opposite of what you want to achieve and it will cause problems on the long run.

    Leave a comment:


  • throtts
    replied
    Originally Posted by sklskl View Post
    Yep we already have the ceiling boarded with insulation between the joists.

    What is an ideal temperature for the room to be in?
    This winter my snooker hut will be set at 20 degrees, regardless of table in it or not..

    We can go on and on because I just had a quotation for a Star TC Table, it comes with six under table heaters, does this mean we have reconfigure the room temperature?, haha..

    All the best, buddy.

    Leave a comment:


  • sklskl
    replied
    Yep we already have the ceiling boarded with insulation between the joists.

    What is an ideal temperature for the room to be in?

    Leave a comment:


  • philip in china
    replied
    Amazing how much difference even simple insulation makes. If you haven't already done it get your roof beams underdrawn with something such as plasterboard and get insulation on top of that- i.e. between the beams.

    Are there still grants in UK for insulation??

    Leave a comment:

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